by Richard Foss
Los Angeles has plenty of Italian restaurants with evocative names that bring to mind idyllic surroundings – an outdoor picnic at Il Giardino (the garden), romantic locations like Via Veneto and Caffe Roma, and even heaven itself at Divino. Redondo Beach has one that is more prosaic, yet ambiguous. Il Posto simply means “The Place,” or in some usages, “The Seat.” If you want to book a seat in this place and express that in Italian, you might use the word twice, with a different meaning each time.
The restaurant on Catalina Avenue is essentially a rebirth of Avenue Italy, which operated in a large and somewhat formal space on Avenue I for several years before closing last year. The management and chef are the same, but the vibe is different. The new incarnation is smaller and more modern, the walls a stark white but embellished with mirrors and decorative moldings. A huge amphora flanked with fake plants livens up the front of the room, while cute but impractical-looking barstools with faux sheepskin seats and striped pillows add a touch of whimsy at the bar. I sat on one of these to see whether they were as uncomfortable as they looked and decided that they weren’t, but we preferred a table anyway.
The short menu is traditional rather than Cal-Italian, with handmade pastas, four meat entrees and three fish options, and is rounded out with a few daily specials. On our first visit we started with a spinach salad with what was described as melted gorgonzola and strawberries. The cheese wasn’t actually melted, but was finely ground and sprinkled so that it was just a funky accent for the fresh berries and greens. It’s something anybody could make if they thought of doing it, but it showed off the virtues of good ingredients simply enhanced in a way that was true to Italian values. That salad wasn’t on the menu on our next visit, and our server couldn’t say whether it would be brought back.
On the next trip we started with the vegetariana salad, which was almost baroque in its complexity. This is composed of mixed greens, grilled eggplant and zucchini, carrots, celery, tomato, onion, green beans, corn, and marinated bell peppers with a very light avocado dressing. That sounds like someone just tossed everything they could find in the vegetable drawer into a bowl, but it was actually brilliantly calibrated. There was a mix of smoky, fresh, and pickled flavors that changed slightly with every bite, and it was delightful. If you are a vegetarian, this could be a fine entrée, and if not, you can enjoy it as a starter for three or four people. There were only two of us at dinner, so we took it home and found that it was still good the next day.
On our two visits we tried four entrees – tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, daily specials of lamb shank and spinach spaghetti amatriciana, and a show-stopping dish called cartoccio di pasta al frutti di mare. Cartoccio translates literally as “bag,” though in Italian cuisine this means wrapping pasta and meat or seafood in aluminum foil and baking it. This arrives at the table still wrapped, and when the server tears the foil, there is a great rush of fragrant steam. In case that wasn’t enough of a show, they then top this with fresh basil and a sprig of rosemary, which they light on fire. I thought this last touch was pure theatre, but it did have an effect, because you could taste a hint of smoky rosemary as you worked your way through the dish. Cooking the noodles and seafood together in a light tomato sauce concentrates the flavors of shellfish, squid, and shrimp, and it would be a must-have even if the presentation wasn’t so impressive. Note that the portion is very generous – this really would be a good entrée for two rather than one person.
The other pasta we had on that visit, the spinach pasta amatriciana, was the only dud of either meal. Amatriciana is another simple dish, made with cured pork cheek called guanciale and onion in a red sauce. As with any dish that simple, the ingredients have to be in balance, and these weren’t. The pasta was toothsome, the sauce rich, but the small amount of pork cheek had been finely ground so that it disappeared. This is a classic Roman dish that I enjoyed several times when I last visited there, and every time the guanciale was in small chunks so the texture and flavor were distinct elements.
The tagliatelle with wild mushrooms that we enjoyed on our next visit was another three-ingredient item, egg pasta and mushrooms in a mushroom and wine sauce, but this had the balance right. There was a hint of smokiness, the right dash of garlic, and a breath of freshness from the green herbs sprinkled on top.
I had intended to order the veal scallopine, but was diverted when our server mentioned that the lamb shank came with a sauce that she described as like a curry, but Venetian. I had never experienced anything remotely close to that description, so had to investigate. The broth that arrived with the meaty shank was an intense stock that tasted more of onion, oregano, and other herbs than anything else, rather than the complex spice mélange of South Asia. It was very good and very filling, as the shank arrived with roasted potatoes, grilled zucchini and carrots, and a half broiled tomato.
The wine list is entirely Italian, with a good selection by the glass for between $16 and $20. On the second visit our helpful server Mackenzie offered tastes when we asked about some varietals we were unfamiliar with, and I ended up with a Verdicchio that complemented the lamb shank very well.
We tried two desserts, the tiramisu and a crema Catalana. I found the crema catalana, a variation on the crème brulee, a bit too sweet but can unhesitatingly recommend the tiramisu. The texture was light, the balance of marsala, mascarpone, chocolate, and coffee exquisite. I was tempted to order the pistachio torte too, but we were so full from our large meals that we decided to save it for the next visit.
The environment at Il Posto is pleasant, a ‘60s pop hit parade featuring Sinarta and Como, somehow fitting the environment. It’s good they make the place comfortable, because on both visits the serving staff was stretched thin. There were only two servers on a midweek evening, three on a Friday, and if the restaurant had been more than half full on either occasion they would have been slammed. I give them credit that on both visits they were friendly and conscientious, and we never felt neglected.
If you are looking for a relaxed, peaceful meal that is squarely within Italian tradition, Il Posto might be the place – and maybe that’s why they named it as they did.
Il Posto is at 1733 S. Catalina Street in Riviera Village. Open daily at 11 a.m., close 10 p.m.. Street parking, patio dining. Wheelchair access good, some vegetarian items. (310) 921-8232. Ilposto.square.site. ER
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