When Jermaine Butler decided to open an Italian restaurant in Mount Horeb, he knew there would be challenges, especially considering the location.
Butler’s Vita Bella Italiano Ristorante now occupies 209 E Main St., the former location of another Italian joint, Bar Manzo, which closed only six months after opening. Another Italian restaurant, Sole Sapori, had also previously occupied the space.
“The location has a long history of Italian food and we knew we needed to do something different that would get people’s attention,” Butler said. “So I thought, ‘How about a flaming wheel of cheese?’”
Vita Bella has two dishes on the menu that the staff prepares right at customers’ tables. One is a classic Caesar salad ($23), the other is polla alla Parmigiana, a chicken parmesan pasta ($36). Servers bring over a cart with a bowl of hot noodles and a very large wheel of parmesan cheese, carved into a bowl with chunks of cheese inside. Then they light it on fire.
“We use high proof wine to help light the cheese wheel and keep the flame burning,” Butler said. “Then we dump the noodles onto the cheese, which puts out the flame. Then we mix the noodles into the cheese and serve it.
“It’s one of our most popular orders.”
While customers, sadly, do not inherit the entire cheese wheel as their serving bowl, the parmesan flavor on the noodles is rich and the chunks of freshly heated parmesan have made it very popular.
“I tell everyone who comes in that they have to try the parmesan pasta at least once,” Butler said. “It’s an experience. I may not be a chef myself but I know talented people who know what gets people’s mouths watering.”
Butler is the president of Zenith Hospitality Group, a company that operates nationwide providing ancillary services such as valet parking, hotel housekeeping, travel services and more. This is the second restaurant the group has opened, the first being the Links at Pioneer Point in Verona.
That American restaurant and cocktail bar is where Butler got to know Guadalupe Reyes and Victor Meyo. The duo proved themselves as Links cooks and were promoted to chefs at Vita Bella, with Reyes serving as executive chef.
Vita Bella’s bistecca al caffe (coffee-roasted steak, $42) was Reyes’ suggestion. Using a dark roast Mexican coffee, Reyes mixes the fine coffee grounds with salt and pepper and coats the outside of the steak, rubbing the mix into the meat like seasoning.
“At other restaurants I’ve worked at, it was my job to come up with specials for the menu,” Reyes said. “We love our coffee and pairing it with steak.”
Once she knows the steak is fully covered in the coffee grounds, she sears the steak filet in a pan with oil and butter, then finishes roasting the steak in the oven.
“Coffee is definitely Lupe’s jam,” Butler said. “I may not be a chef but I know how to eat and her steak is so good.”
Meyo worked at an Italian restaurant in New Jersey for seven years before starting at Links. His contribution to Vita Bella’s menu is braciola di maiale el bourbon, roasted pork chop in bourbon ($39).
To make the pork chop dish, Meyo first cooks the pork chops halfway in a pan, then cooks for a few more minutes in the oven, then puts them back on the pan to cook as the meat marinates in the bourbon. Once it’s ready to serve, the deglazed bourbon takes on a maple syrup flavor, and the pork chops are served on top of this sauce.
“I’d never tried to make anything like that before,” Meyo said. “But this is the first time I’ve been given the role of chef at a restaurant and wanted to give it my all.”
“Victor has a great sense for flavors,” Butler said. “And he and Lupe are like Batman and Robin in that kitchen.”
Butler says that one of the best parts of running Vita Bella, outside of taste-testing Meyo and Reyes’ dishes, is getting to see two cooks who have become his friends thrive and grow as chefs.
“We share ideas with each other all the time and are always trying to come up with things for the menu that are different,” Meyo said. “And we’d like to have more dishes we can prepare at the table, like our parmesan pasta.”
“Watching them take all this in stride and grow as food artisans … is more rewarding for me than the money,” Butler said. “They are both so talented, it’s unreal. There’s a reason we have 15-16 reservations a night. I really believe everyone should try their food.”