Montclair‘s well-earned reputation as an elite food town is fully encapsulated on its idyllic Church Street. The small but stacked road features myriad dining options ranging from no-frills Beyond Pita falafels to fancy brunches at Raymond’s.
When anything opens or closes on this promenade-lined street, people take notice.
So after Italian eatery Scala di Nonna closed in February after 11 years on Church Street, many were left wondering what was next for the space. In late July, former “Top Chef” star Leia Gaccione moved in and opened The Saint Clair, a modern American eatery that pays homage to its prestigious address set on a contemporary stage.
Gaccione is best known in the Garden State for South + Pine, one of the top restaurants in Morristown. But she actually got her start in Essex County’s culinary capital.
“I started my career in Montclair and worked in several downtown restaurants early on,” Gaccione told NJ Advance Media. ”Church Street has always held a special place in my heart. “It has such charm, it truly feels iconic.”
Gaccione’s vision was inspired by logistics, the existing framework, art and cinema.
“The design concept came from two main sources: the soaring cathedral ceilings you see as soon as you walk in, and the fact that the restaurant sits on Church Street itself. I knew I wanted those elements to be at the center of the design,” Gaccione said. “I found an image of a church in Spain that had been renovated into a home, and I loved the juxtaposition of its historic bones with the modern art layered throughout.”
When it comes to the menu, Gaccione has stayed true to what has led her throughout her career, focusing on local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients.
“In many ways, this menu is a reinvention for me — still comforting and familiar, but more elevated and expressive,” Gaccione said. “I pride myself on mindful cooking and working with fresh ingredients in unique, thoughtful ways.”
The Saint Clair’s concept, inspiration and seasonal menu had me intrigued to experience the culmination of Gaccione’s vision and culinary angle.
The good
Of all the foods Montclair is known for, cornbread ($15) isn’t one of them. But The Saint Clair’s version of the southern dish is definitely worth ordering. Served in the cast iron skillet in which it is cooked and topped with a melty mound of salted butter, honey, flaky salt and toasted coriander, I enjoyed the tender middle and crispier edges.
The beautiful tuna crudo ($21) was a verdant presentation of thinly sliced tuna, gum drop grapes, citrus, chilies, crispy quinoa and mint. The combination of textures and flavors was incredibly impressive. The lean fish, sweet grapes and fresh mint served as a nice palate cleanser and a light intermission among the richer dishes.
Another standout was the crispy rice ($25), which presented more like risotto fritters set atop squid ink aioli topped with jumbo lump crab. I loved the crunch of the fritter and creamy interior. Nothing in this dish competed with the star ingredient, allowing the delicate crab to shine.
Another bright item that balanced the heavier plates was The Saint Clair salad ($17), a blend of market greens, celery, funky manchego cheese, toasted marcona almonds, grilled dates and honey vinaigrette. While I would have preferred the dates to be cut smaller, I enjoyed everything else about it.
The Saint Clair may be a BYOB establishment, but their beverage program is nonetheless robust. Along with a creative selection of mocktails, there is an entire menu of espresso and non-espresso dessert drinks featuring house-made syrups and blends. The hazelnut hot chocolate ($10) was a churched up take on Swiss Miss — nutty and rich but not overly so, with an elegant marshmallow on top. The hot apple cider ($10) was exactly what you’d want on a chilly night, spiked with hot honey and lemon.
The grand finale was the pumpkin opera cake ($15), a gorgeous slice of cold, dense pumpkin mousse layered with crunchy almond brittle and topped with a thin, glossy layer of dark chocolate fondue. This work of art is brought in from nearby bakery Jayce Baudry, crafted by Chef Leonardo Argoti specifically for The Saint Clair.
The bad
The bookends of the meal were highlights, while the mains left a bit to be desired. The dry-aged beef burger ($29) had potential with long-cooked Vidalia onions, Cooper Sharp cheese and truffle aioli. But it ultimately suffered from an overwhelming amount of arugula, and it was overcooked. The fries alongside were fine but far from remarkable.
The heritage pork chop ($41) sounded delicious on the menu but didn’t deliver on the plate. The thin chop was fatty and chewy, and the roasted apples lacked the slow-cooked texture and sweetness you hope for from an ingredient like that. The chestnut polenta congealed by the time it hit the table, and the pancetta was cut so large that it overpowered and felt out of place. This dish had potential, but didn’t land on execution.
The vibe
With two distinct dining spaces, The Saint Clair offers guests the opportunity to lean into a lighter, brighter vibe in the main dining room or a darker, sultry, more exclusive-feeling area upstairs.
The soaring cathedral ceilings, open kitchen and well-spaced seating set a welcoming tone for groups of friends, families and even a business meal. Head upstairs, and you’ve stepped into another world outfitted in deep burgundy, textured snakeskin walls, leather banquettes, neon lights and a bold, Renaissance mural. Gaccione said the 1996 film “Romeo + Juliet” inspired some of the design choices here. The theme extends into the bathrooms and onto the dining tables, where guests can rest drinks on coasters featuring the film’s star, Claire Danes. The dynamic is playful while still feeling elegant.
The bottom line
The Saint Clair adds some much-appreciated character and flavor to one of Montclair’s most bustling roads. The menu is creative yet approachable, featuring seasonal takes on comforting dishes. Conveniently located next to wine shop Amanti Vino, guests can grab a bottle to compliment their meal while the restaurant continues to work on obtaining a liquor license (easier said than done).
With some tweaks, The Saint Clair has the chops to be one of Montclair’s best restaurants — even if it isn’t quite there yet. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Friday, dinner from Monday through Sunday and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday.
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