I’ve been to many Italian restaurants in New Jersey, each claiming they have the most authentic Neapolitan pizza and pasta dishes. And some do serve tasty and original dishes from that part of the world, where they yell at each other and wave their arms like a fight is brewing.
Not to worry though, our friends from Southern Italy are just passionate about life, about everything, really.
I experienced that exact vibe when I visited Song’E Napule restaurant in Rutherford. Italian is the mother tongue there, and the rustic, chaotic and passionate Neapolitan atmosphere is as real as it gets. I’ve seen it in Naples, that region in Italy where the vibrant melting pot of cultures comes with a side of good eats.
Song’E Napule chef Ciro Iovine, 43, immigrated to the United States 15 years ago. He started his food journey with restaurants in the Upper West Side and the Village, and now in Rutherford, New Jersey.
“I’ve been a pizza chef since I was 13 years old,” Iovine said with that thick Italian accent you only hear in Jersey. “New York is great, but I love the people in New Jersey, and I want them to feel like they’re in Napoli when they dine here. This restaurant is my home, and I want to welcome people into my home.”
While Iovine was telling me this, a server came and asked him a question in Italian. Iovine waved his arms and spoke back with much gusto in Italian. Iovine is a seasoned chef and a father to four children. He is married to the love of his life, Austria Maldonado, 46, from the Dominican Republic.
“With my family that I love very much, and with our three locations, we’re very busy, always,” Iovine said. “But we still serve good food, and we focus on good service. Our customers’ happiness is very important to me.”
On to the review:
The Good
My meal began with a Margherita pizza, the original Neapolitan pizza pie. The sauce had that tang you only get from those San Marzano tomatoes from Italy, and the cheese was flavorful and savory. I found out later that Iovine uses Fiore di Latte cheese as opposed to the Buffalo mozzarella used by most chefs. I also enjoyed the Starita pie with tomatoes, pecorino romano, anchovies from Cetara, organic Sicilian oregano and evoo Letizio from Sicily, (Extra virgin olive oil).
Pasta was next, and I had the spaghetti alla nerano with zucchini, parmigiano reggiano, pecorino romano, shaved provolone and lemon zest. I wasn’t excited about the zucchini at first, but I was pleasantly surprised. The cheese was earthy and hearty, then the zucchini brilliantly balanced those flavors with fresh and buttery notes.
Lastly, I tried one of Chef Ciro’s signature dishes: Paccheri Genovese, pasta with slow-cooked veal, onion ragu, fresh basil and extra virigin olive oil. The veal was tender, the pasta was seasoned perfectly, and the onion ragu was a tasty addition.
As if I could still eat, Chef Iovine brought me a dessert for the grand finish: The Delizia Al Limone, a soft sponge cake bathed in lemon infusion and topped with a delicate lemon crème. The dish was so good, I made room! The lemon notes balanced the sweetness brilliantly, and the texture was light and refreshing.
The not so good
The food at Song’E Napule was delicious with ample flavors, but the pasta was perhaps a touch too al dente. I mentioned this to Chef Iovine, and he said that’s how pasta is served in Napoli. Correction: With much gusto and passion, he said that’s how pasta is served in Napoli.
Maybe I’ve been Americanized to a different degree of al dente.
The Bottom Line
With overwhelming enthusiasm, I highly recommend Song’E Napule for your next meal. The food is more than delicious, the vibe is friendly and charming, and the staff will welcome you in with friendly and passionate gusto.
Have you been to a restaurant that pleasantly surprised you? Share your thoughts, please. I’m always looking for my next foodie adventure.
Karim Shamsi-Basha may be reached at [email protected]. Follow him on Twitter & Instagram.
Follow Mosaic on Instagram at @MosaicNJcom and on Facebook at MosaicNJcom.