LEXINGTON — When Alodia's closed in 2023, Columbia food industry veteran Steve Cook saw its downtown Lexington location as the perfect fit for a new concept.
Cook, who owns Saluda's, Il Bucato Pizza and Arroyo Tacos & Tequila, joined with Moltó Vino owner Joe Walker and previous Halls Chophouse general manager Ryan Jones to stop the building from being gutted and turned it into what is now Ember — a modern steakhouse.
The restaurant is elegant with white table cloths, a textured ceiling doubling as a sound dampening panel and design feature, and a sleek bar with exposed brick and comfortable chairs.
Cook said he wanted the restaurant to look like a Ritz Carlton lobby and be a gathering place for Lexington. And after a few weeks, it looks like Ember has met and surpassed his goal.
The restaurant is open five days a week and primarily operates on reservations, which can be difficult to come by People are regularly eyeing the steakhouse's menu posted outside its door or grabbing a seat at the first-come, first-serve bar. Some guests have traveled as far as Blythewood and Aiken to try the restaurant’s menu, Jones said.
The co-owner said his hope is that with a dedication to freshness and the customer experience, Ember can stand out in the Midlands and meet the standards to be in any major city, from Charleston to Charlotte to Miami.
“It's delivering the best quality," Jones said. "So you look around and we've really put the best touches and finishes on the restaurant, and the food needs to match that level.”
The highest quality
All of the fish served at Ember is from Florida and overnighted to the restaurant to ensure freshness, Jones said. The restaurant handmakes almost everything, from the brioche for its lobster sliders to its fries, which Ember serves instead of a basket of bread, along with homemade ketchup and horseradish truffle sauce.
“I think it shows that we're not taking ourselves too seriously," Jones said about the decision to serve fries as a complementary appetizer. "But also, once again, we're putting something in front of the guests that is made in-house, that's hand-cut right, that takes that time and labor to do (what) a lot of people don't do.”
But handmaking bread and fries is just one of the ways Jones said Ember's chef, Justin Johnson, is determined to make the restaurant the best. Johnson often works the line and is far from what Jones calls a hands-off "clipboard chef."
Johnson worked extensively in Georgia, but most recently served as the senior executive chef at Morrison Healthcare in Columbia. He said when he decides what vendors to partner with and where to get ingredients, he thinks of his grandparents and their farm.
"I look at how they saw the food," Johnson said. "It was very fresh. It was wholesome. Wasn’t a lot of stuff added to it. And I want to bring that here. You know, the food's good. Just cook it properly, salt, pepper and just leave it alone. That’s kind of our mentality.”
Some of Jones and Cook's favorite dishes are, of course, the steak options, which Cook said he spent hours ensuring were perfect.
“When I opened a pizza restaurant. I tasted a thousand pieces to get it right," Cook said. "I got sick of pizza, couldn't look at it, and I almost got that way with steak. We tasted so many different products and so many different kinds, because, I mean, there's so many different variables to put that in. And we got what we think is the best steak.”
But while Cook said the steak is obviously a highlight, Ember's 48-hour short rib is also a fan favorite. It's served with a smoked potato puree and "pot roast" vegetables.
Ember also has pasta, including a house-made pappardelle, and multiple seafood options ranging from North Atlantic Salmon to the chef's daily selection of fish.
“It's swimming yesterday, on the plate in front of the guests today," Johnson said.
And while entrées may steal the show, Ember also has a wide array of appetizers. The summer corn bisque is popular among the waitstaff and includes citrus cream for a bright twist.
Cook said every menu item is being tweaked and perfected as the staff hears feedback.
“It's not the cheapest restaurant in town, so we better deliver on that quality promise," Cook said.
Looking forward
While the restaurant is currently focused on perfecting the basics, Cook and Jones said they have big plans for the future.
"Phase two" of renovations will include a new enclosed patio, adding to the current space inside the restaurant. The current space fits 22 people. The renovations will bump capacity to 40 people in what Cook said is an option not offered in other restaurants in Lexington.
Ember also plans to host its first wine dinner on July 14 featuring wine from Chimney Rock in the Napa Valley of California and hopes to expand the program to other dates as the restaurant eventually opens seven days a week.
Cook said he has high hopes for Ember's position as a shining star — and maybe one day expand Ember's ethos to new restaurants.
“This is not like we're gonna open this restaurant and then 20 years later we'll still be sitting here," Cook said. "Our idea is to grow and take the good things that we are doing here and spread them to other restaurants, whether they're other Embers or whether they're other restaurants under a different concept, you know, kind of keep that level of quality.”