WEST COLUMBIA — Gloria Alonzo often finds herself facing an impossible choice: feeding her family or paying the bills.
With the cost of food and household items ramping up to over $300 a week, Alonzo struggles to stretch the income her husband brings in from his construction job.
Andres Perez Gomez works in construction, and she stays at their West Columbia home with their 6-year-old son Emmanuel and 2-year-old Samuel.
Prioritizing is a challenge — Alonzo, 40, has to pay her bills first, and then sees what’s left over for food, clothes and other necessities.
In 2022, food prices increased faster than any year since 1979. Since the COVD-19 pandemic, food costs have risen almost 25 percent, according to the federal Department of Agriculture.
“It’s very difficult for us,” Alonzo told The Post and Courier in Spanish. “It becomes so exhausting when we just don’t have the food. It's a struggle to feed all of us.”
Alonzo and her family are among more than 700,000 people in the state who experience “food insecurity” — defined as a lack of reliable access to affordable healthy foods.
This comes as the result of either living in food “deserts” or food “swamps.”
An area is considered a “food desert” if the closest grocery store is at least a mile away. In rural areas, that distance grows to 10 miles. A lack of reliable public transportation and the closing of long-standing grocery stores exacerbates these conditions.
On the other end of the spectrum, “food swamps” are areas with a high concentration of “unhealthy food.” It’s harder to find clear cut food swamp neighborhoods because of the revolving door of businesses and menu items.
South Carolina has one of the highest prevalence of food insecurity in the country, according to a report from the state Food Security Council. Thirty-nine of the 46 counties in the state have food deserts located within them. Consequently, these are often low-income areas, according to Edward Simmer, interim director of the South Carolina Department of Public Health.
In the Columbia-area, food deserts tend to be located around the county lines, Simmer added. Food deserts are found across the Midlands, from Batesburg-Leesville, Cayce and West Columbia to Olympia, St. Andrews and Dentsville.
Seven percent of the state faces very low food security — above the national average of 4.7 percent.
“South Carolina as a whole, sadly, is the worst state in the nation, for what we call very low food security,” Simmer said. He defined “very low” as people who consistently go hungry at night. He added many of those people are children. It’s considered the most severe level of food insecurity.
Living in areas without proper access to food can lead to higher rates of chronic illnesses, like diabetes or cardiovascular disease, according to Andrew Kaczynski, a professor and researcher at the University of South Carolina and director of the Built Environment and Community Health Laboratory.
Walkability is a parallel concern that relates to food deserts, he added. It contributes to people not eating as healthy and simultaneously not getting exercise needed to burn off the calories from consuming more processed, unhealthy foods.
“Growing up in an unhealthy food environment and only having access to poor food choices is going to have all of these economic and social costs down the road that we don't always forecast,” he said.
Filling the gaps
With a reach of 20 counties across the state, organizations like Harvest Hope Food Bank are meeting the growing need of food insecurity. CEO Erinn Rowe said the need has only risen, especially after the Covid-19 pandemic.
“Inflation, the cost of food is still exponentially more expensive than it was five years ago," Rowe said.
"And what happens is all these normalized costs that are more expensive, they cut into the leftover money people have at the end of the month to buy food, and so they aren't able to make it paycheck to paycheck.”
For sisters Monique and Sherri Caughman, living with disabilities has directly impacted their access to food.
Sherri Caughman, 62, lives alone in her home in Lexington. She pays over $1,300 in rent, nearly $200 a month on utilities and $100 a month for internet. Between constant medical expenses and co-pays for the doctor for multiple sclerosis — an immune system disease — the money she receives from social security and her pension is spread thin.
“Once I balance all that out, I really don’t have money to purchase food,” she said.
Despite opting for the most inexpensive supermarkets and buying things when they’re on sale, food affordability remains a problem.
Because her disability limits how much she can work, Monique Caughman, 60, relies on food pantries because of her limited income. The West Columbia resident is on disability pay because of medical issues but tries to work part-time when she can. The pain spurred by lymphedema, fibromyalgia neuropathy and osteoarthritis, forces her to work even less hours than she’s allowed on disability.
“I wouldn’t eat because my money is just enough for my bills. There’s nothing left,” she said. “When you don’t have it coming in and it’s all going out, you don’t have anything else but to look to other sources to get food.”
Supplementing supermarkets
Food pantries have helped address food insecurity across the state, but they can only do so much.
According to Simmer, food insecurity is going down in the state, but food deserts remain an issue, and are indeed on the rise.
In areas with limited supermarkets, residents turn to less conventional sources of food, like dollar stores and gas stations.
“If it wasn't for Dollar General, there would be a whole lot more food deserts because they built that footprint that they're out in rural communities and do offer food supplies,” Rowe said.
Many of the options are often lower quality, shelf-stable, but ultimately highly processed and calorie dense.
Mobile food markets have popularized — utilized by nonprofits and government agencies alike – to reach the need in these areas, however, they’re only temporary solutions in nature.
The issue of not having a permanent grocery store still persists.
“Having a grocery store, having an everyday open source of fresh food is by far the best solution,” Simmer said. “There are ways that we can mitigate the impact of food deserts, by at least having food available periodically.”
April covers Lexington County at the Post and Courier. The best way to reach her is at [email protected]