Kelli Thomas said when she began waitressing at Rivertown Bistro months after it opened in 1994, she had no idea what to do when a customer ordered calamari.
Thomas, who now works for Conway Alive, went to the bartender, thinking it was a drink, and together they tried to figure out how to make a calamari. At that point in time, Conway was a small Southern town and a restaurant had never added something like fried squid to the menu.
Conway has come a long way since Rivertown Bistro had Thomas learning what calamari is on the job.
When Darren Smith first opened the restaurant, he said Conway was a “one-restaurant town.” That has changed drastically in the last 10 years, with more than 20 restaurants now open in a small radius.
This evolution was not accidental. The city capitalized on Horry County’s growth and put resources towards turning downtown into a destination. This allowed Conway to transform itself from simply being a historic town to a “little Charleston,” as described by Justin Falcone, the owner of Italian restaurant Leone’s.
During Smith’s first 20 years in Conway, he said many restaurants would open for only a few years before closing — but that changed when the city began investing in itself.
In 2016, The Burroughs Company donated about five acres of waterfront land to the city of Conway, according to The Sun News. This spurred city officials to begin working on a downtown masterplan to use the land wisely, said City Administrator Adam Emrick.
“(The land donation) really forced us to look inward and give a critical look to all the space that we owned and challenge ourselves to do better,” he said.
The masterplan outlined goals for Conway’s downtown. Objectives included promoting Conway as a place for “fine arts, cultural and historic groups” and encouraging mixed use environments, including retail, employment and residential use. The idea was to bring more people downtown, according to a 2019 masterplan.
Conway offered new incentives to businesses looking to open in the downtown area, like reimbursing capital recovery fees, Emrick said. The city charges these fees to new businesses to help offset the added strain to public resources. The reimbursement made it cheaper, and easier, for businesses to open downtown.
The city eventually had to remove this incentive in downtown corridors, as space for new development ran out, Emrick said.
These tactics spurred what feels like organic growth. Along Main Street of Conway, one can find the twee Our Next Chapter Bookstore, a historic performing arts theater and a variety of restaurants. The historic buildings and the mom-and-pop businesses fit together, giving downtown Conway the Hallmark feel the city strived to create.
“A lot of people that were born and raised in Conway are still here or live locally. I think they appreciate the growth without commercializing it,” said Falcone of Leone’s.
Myrtle Beach-area businesses rely on the influx of summer vacationers to get them through the rest of the year. However, the Conway market does not work like that.
“Myrtle Beach is so up and down because of tourism. One of the restaurants I worked at (in Myrtle Beach), their slowest week was $4,000 a week and their busiest week was $285,000,” said Chris Snyder, the owner of the Crooked Oak Tavern. “I didn’t want to do that. It was a lot of work for staffing.”
Several restaurant owners, including Snyder, said one reason they opened in Conway was to avoid the stress of Myrtle Beach’s fluctuating seasons. The restaurant owners also love that their main customer base is year-round locals.
“The backbone of my business are locals, even if it’s Myrtle Beach people and from Pawleys Island. We pull from all surrounding communities, from the beach and inland, Aynor, Florence and all that,” Smith said.
Conway locals no longer feel like they need to “cross the bridge” to find a good meal, said June Wood, the Conway Public Information Officer. For example, when Wood grew up in Conway, she and her friends would drive into Myrtle Beach for prom dinner. Now, downtown Conway fills with high schoolers on prom night.
The local restaurants are also less competitive. Each restaurant has their niche, with farm-to-table food available at Crooked Oak Tavern, Italian cuisine at Leone’s and Jamaican curries at Caribbean Jerk Cuisine Restaurant to name a few. There is also a variety of price points, from a $3 slice of pizza at Anto’s Pizza Romana or a $47 ribeye at Rivertown Bistro. This allows restaurants to build into their niche and not compete as intensely with each other.
“I’ve always been a big proponent of if we’re busy, they can go somewhere else. If someone else is busy, they can come here or they can go somewhere else,” Snyder said.
Come October, the trees in downtown Conway are filled with pumpkins, there is a haunted boat floating in the marina and the streets are lined with skeletons and other scary creatures.
The city leaned heavily into events, such as Halloween, Burger Week, the city’s Christmas decorations and the Riverwalk Festival, to draw people into Conway multiple times a year. The city’s Halloween decorations seem to be the most successful.
“October and December, with Halloween and Christmas, is just, that’s our busy time,” Snyder said.
Beginning in the early 2020s, Conway stopped trying to be nationally known for its Christmas displays and put more effort into Halloween, Wood previously told The Sun News. Over the years, the city has spent over $500,000 on Halloween decorations, The Sun News reported.
Conway also changes its name to Halloween for the month of October.
Multiple restaurant owners said October is their busiest month of the year, attributing the increase in business to the city’s celebration.
“The city officials in the last several years have really put an effort to making it feel like small town USA. The addition of the riverwalk, and then the extension of that subsequently, has just really dumped people down here,” Smith said. “All the little festivals that we do and the celebrations of the different holidays have put Conway on the map everywhere you go.”
Looking forward, Conway is working to offer experiences that appeal to the next generation, not just the current population.
“There used to be this mantra amongst us, locals, when we were in high school, that we would graduate and leave and go find bigger things for ourselves in other cities,” Wood said. “The city tries to appeal to (younger generations) so that they have fond memories here. Then after their studies, if they stay local, or whether they go away, that whenever they decide to call a place home that we want them to come back to Conway.”