LYDICK — If you are going fast along Edison Road in Lydick, you may not see Holy Smokes Pizza's small, white wood frame building with a sign and vertical banners that sit nearby the red bus that serves as its food truck.
Jerry Aufrance has taken a local landmark — the town's former ice cream parlor, complete with the parlor's original multi-mixer that used to — and still does — handle multiple shakes — and has made it his own pizza parlor.
Aufrance leased the building for his restaurant in the early summer of 2021. The building he now occupies has had a myriad of tenants, including an insurance agent, a pest control company, a bait shop, a sweet shop and others.
A year earlier, he and a friend were going to try to lease a church and start a barbecue place near New Carlisle, in a similar fashion to the Beer Church Brewing Co. in New Buffalo.
When the lease was up in 2021, Aufrance offered to teach his friend the restaurant business and set up a commissary for the bus Aufrance had purchased in 2020 for a startup.
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The deal fell through, and Aufrance then began to wonder whether he should try again in the restaurant business, where he has worked for most of his life, including when he started his own as owner, a sandwich shop, in Ohio in 1977.
"It takes a certain kind of crazy to work in a restaurant," he says. "I got hankering again. I really liked the idea of talking to people, asking them, 'How was your dog? How's your grandson? Is he playing ball?' Family-type talk."
The name Holy Smokes came from a friend, a real connoisseur of pizza.
"He would go to all the mom-and-pop places and eat pizza," Aufrance says, adding he would order a pepperoni pizza.
At the time, Aufrance was making pizzas in the basement of the church.
"He's down there and I had made a pizza, and he says 'Holy smokes, that's good pizza!'" Aufrance says.
The name also is emblazoned on the uniforms of Aufrance's softball team for players 62 and older that he's played on for 11 years.
The result of his urge to return to running a restaurant has begun to show up on social media comments on Holy Smokes Pizza, and Aufrance is pleased.
Comments say the place is cozy, and the people at Holy Smokes are easy to talk to.
"That's part of our allure," Aufrance says. "Some say it's cozy here, or it's laid-back."
Signature sandwiches
Because of its size — the parlor seats 36, including the counter stools — Aufrance says there are times the menu items may not be available. "That doesn't mean I cannot make it up," he says.
Despite the fact that Edison Road dead-ends near Holy Smokes, Aufrance says they still get people off the Indiana Toll Road at times that come over. Most of the clientele has been local.
His signature go-to sandwich is his popular Ham, Salami, Provolone (HSP) sandwich, also known as the HSP Special. It's no coincidence that the HSP also represents the restaurant's name, he adds.
"We make a super Coney. We make it out of our Italian pizza sausage and our sauce," Aufrance says.
The milk shakes served at Holy Smokes are made on the same mixer that originally was in the ice cream parlor.
Aufrance said he has had to maintain the mixer over the years, but several shakes can be blended at the same time if needed.
Abby Lord, who works behind the counter along with Aufrance, says the original equipment goes with the place.
"We're serving milk shakes on the same mixer that was originally here in the '50s," Lord says. "It's (on the) same shelf, the same mixer on the same spot."
Aufrance also touts his East of Chicago hot dog.
"I use the ingredients that are on a Chicago hot dog. I change it a bit. Put the mustard, relish and onions on the bottom of the bun with the hot dog on it, and I make a sauce of the rest of the ingredients with banana peppers," he says. "You take a bite and you get a bit of everything when you take each bite."
It's the pizza
When asked about his main food, Aufrance says it's the technique of preparing the crust that makes his pizzas a hit with customers. He said in devising his own pizza style, he got his ingredients and wanted to figure out for himself what kind of pizza he wanted to produce.
He recalls hearing stories about people kneading dough for 10 minutes. While in college learning restaurant management at the University of Houston, he took a professor's advice.
"The more you work the dough, the harder it gets. So we don't do that here," he said.
The restaurant is located near the Indiana Invaders soccer fields near Lydick, and Aufrance said customers from Chicago came in two weeks ago from a tournament and raved.
"They said 'You know, we're from Chicago,' where pizza is important, and he says they liked both the sauce and the crust. Those are the two things I can control," Aufrance says. "We can by vegetables anywhere and cheese anywhere, but the two things that set you apart are the crust and the sauce."
His food 'bus'
To bolster the bottom line, Aufrance has been invited to join several food trucks at the Amazon data center worksite near New Carlisle to serve workers who need lunch services there.
Aufrance said a customer recommended he begin offering food to workers, many who are in need of variety of offerings, the owner said.
For the bus food, Aufrance says, he makes the pizzas on the bus, calling them fresher than other food trucks that he says are bringing cooked pizzas from their restaurants in the city to the site.
"We have a lot of advantages, and I have a unique food comprehension mind," he says.
He said he also may dabble with three-course lunches for the workers, a sort of "brown bag special."
He is even considering coupons and marketing to the Amazon employees, giving the workers discounts. "We're two turns, right down the road," he says. He feels they may become regular customers after sampling his food offerings.
With the food bus business for lunch on weekdays, Holy Smokes' Lydick hours of operation will be mainly on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. That can change, however, depending upon the success of the remote operation.
"The biggest thing is you have to change," Aufrance says. "You have to keep changing."
Holy Smokes Pizza
? What: Pizza, sandwiches, hot dogs and shakes
? Where: 26222 Edison Road, west of South Bend near Lydick
? Hours: Fridays 4-9 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays 2-9 p.m. Closed for food bus Mondays through Fridays for now
? Prices: $27-$5.25
? For more information: Call 574-440-6555 or go to https://holysmokespizza.com/
If you know of a restaurant that should be featured in an upcoming Taste column, email Tribune staff writer Greg Swiercz at [email protected].