This friendly town on the Chesapeake Bay feels a bit like Mayberry. Here on the southern end of Virginia's Eastern Shore, kids shuffle down the pier with fishing poles and Cokes, wispy-haired men swap stories outside the hardware store, and the whole place seems to tuck in for the night not long after the sun goes down. But Cape Charles is decidedly more cosmopolitan than Andy Griffith's stomping grounds. The town is known for its 1828 lighthouse, fishing industry, and fresh seafood. It's also worth visiting for its range of activities, from browsing the walkable shopping district to exploring its unspoiled waters.
Once the economic hub of the Eastern Shore, Cape Charles settled into a sleepier routine with the decline of the railroad industry and the opening of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. But more than 50 years later, the salty little hamlet has officially made a comeback, holding tight to its small-town character even as it welcomes a new and growing crowd of beach lovers. Cape Charles has fewer crowds in the off-season, so visiting during late spring or early fall is the best way to enjoy all the town's scenery and activities. The town's public beach is often less crowded during this time as well. Now meet the folks ushering Cape Charles into its most exciting chapter yet, and find out things to do on your visit.
The 20 Most Beautiful Places In Virginia, According To A Local
Where To Eat
Swing by family-owned Mason Avenue Bakery for warm pastries and picnic-perfect sandwiches. Bakers use local ingredients and traditional methods to make artisan breads and handcrafted pastries. Order a sandwich on a fresh-baked baguette and head to the beach. Indulge in a cookie or brownie to finish it off.
masonavenuebakery.com, 236 Mason Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
Settle into Ambrogia Caffe & Enoteca for homemade pasta, fresh seafood, and beautiful desserts. The restaurant focuses on local foods and slow, family-style dining. Start with small plates or a charcuterie board, featuring Italian cheeses, vegetables, and cured meats.
ambrogiacc.com, 321 Mason Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
Slurp local oysters and catch the sunset from the deck at Shanty restaurant. Committed to sustainable seafood and the community, the waterfront restaurant has a loyal local following, as well as beautiful views. Clams, mussels, and lobster rolls will satisfy your seafood craving. The menu also offers tacos, burgers, and salads.
shantyseafood.com, 33 Marina Road, Cape Charles, VA 23310
PHOTO: Robbie Caponetto PHOTO: Robbie Caponetto
The Brown Dog Ice Cream owner, Miriam Wagner, never planned to have a scoop shop. While visiting Virginia Beach, she found Cape Charles, a quiet bayside haven. Smitten with this place, she and her then-husband closed on a house just 15 days later—something Miriam says is not altogether unusual for the area. "That's the story of so many people who live here," she says. "They come, they fall in love with it, and they buy something."
In 2012, she opened something a beach town really needs—Brown Dog Ice Cream, where the tasty flavors are determined by what's in season and available just down the road. "The old adage, 'A rising tide lifts all boats,' is very true here," says Miriam. "To make our coffee ice cream, we source from the local roaster. All the farmers come and bring me the produce that is freshest to use. If I find myself needing more peaches, they will let me go pick them."
While the menu (which features coffee and doughnuts in addition to its inventive ice creams) changes daily, the welcoming atmosphere at the shop and across Cape Charles, in general, remains a constant. "There is a sense of community here, even if you're just visiting this area," says Miriam. "People will come and stay for a week. By the second day, we've talked to them and know who they are. And by the end of the week, they will come in and tell us, 'We're really sorry that it's our last day, but we'll be back next year.' "
browndogicecream.com, 203 Mason Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
Drunken Clams, a special menu item at Cape Charles Brewing Company. PHOTO: Robbie Caponetto PHOTO: Robbie Caponetto
Where To Drink
"We wanted to create a true destination: a place where you could have a great craft beer, eat good food, and listen to music," says Mark Marshall, co-owner of Cape Charles Brewing Company with his brother Chris Marshall.
For Chris, the proof that they had done just that was parked right outside. He pulled into the brewery parking lot one day to find license plates from all over: Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and New York. "You have this pristine piece of geography here," says Mark. "It's a little slice of paradise that everybody is finding out about and coming down to discover."
capecharlesbrewing.com, 2198 Stone Road, Cape Charles, VA 23310
Where To Stay
Just east of the hardware store is Hotel Cape Charles, a sleek boutique stay that offers complimentary beach cruisers for guests. Hotel Cape Charles makes sunny days out on the sand a breeze. Guests at this hotel can help themselves to complimentary bicycles, beach chairs, and towels. Vrbo and Airbnb also have plenty of good options for visitors who want a little more space.
hotelcapecharles.com, 235 Mason Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
These tiny homes may be small in size, but they’re big on comfort. The restored 1930s homes once made up the Esso Park Auto Court. Now a colorful tiny house hotel, each one offers the comforts of home to Cape Charles visitors. Inside, guests will find a queen-size bed, kitchenette, and private bath. The front porch is the perfect spot to see the sunrise.
capecharlestinylivin.com, 22102 South Bayside Road, Cape Charles, VA 23310
What To Do
Families will love Cape Charles Beach, as the waters of the Chesapeake Bay are calm and shallow at this vast public stretch of shoreline. Rental company Southeast Expeditions offers stand-up paddle boards, kayaks, and guided excursions. Paddle to a wine tasting on their Chatham Vineyards tour.
southeastexpeditions.com, 7 Strawberry Street, Cape Charles, VA 23310
The Cape Charles Natural Area Preserve covers 29 acres of forested natural communities. Stroll two boardwalks along freshwater wetlands and a rare maritime dune woodland. The trail ends with views from a bluff overlooking the Chesapeake Bay. The preserve is a habitat for the northeastern beach tiger beetle, a federally threatened species. It’s also a good place for birding year-round and more than 240 species of birds have been observed there, including migratory birds and waterfowl.
dcr.virginia.gov/natural-heritage/natural-area-preserves/capecharles, 301 Patrick Henry Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
Shop the length of Mason Avenue for unique souvenirs. Pop into Moonrise Jewelry for accessories crafted from fish leather—eco-friendly leather made from byproducts of the Icelandic fishing industry—or stop by Gull Hummock Gourmet Market to sample local wines and snacks.
moonrisejewelry.com, 325 Mason Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057602201149, 115 Mason Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
The Sabo sisters, Carol and Beth Ann, are not very good at retirement. They already had second jobs (Beth Ann trains dogs, and Carol owns Machipongo Trading Company up the road) when they retired from full-time careers and needed something to fill the time. They did that with coffee, bagels, and gently used books.
In November 2018, they opened Peach Street Books in a light-filled 1930s building that had been a Pure Oil station and then a garage. "We knew from the plans what it would look like but not what it would feel like—welcoming and cheery. It has historic angles but is still modern, which is very much like Cape Charles itself," says Beth Ann. For the sisters, the bookstore is a means of connecting with everyone who meanders to this Eastern Shore. "When you go into a town and see that there are other people who love books and reading or writing, it just gives you a good feeling of community," she says.
machipongotradingcompany.com, 13037 Lankford Highway, Machipongo, VA 23405
peachstreetbooks.com, 401 Mason Avenue, Cape Charles, VA 23310
Frequently Asked Questions
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