When Christy Coors Ficeli purchased Napa Valley’s Goosecross Cellars in 2013, tastings were only $20. That fee has since risen to $50, and Goosecross isn’t an anomaly: U.S. wine tasting fees have jumped by nearly 350% since 2012, according to a trusted industry report.
“Tastings 10 years ago were basically free and you got a glass to take home with (the winery’s) name etched on it,” recalled Coors Ficeli. “For a while, we’ve had this blessing of visitors stumbling upon Napa in droves, but now, everything is slowing down because prices have gotten so high.”
Tasting room traffic across Wine Country has been down since 2022, so last year, the Yountville winery introduced dynamic pricing. From Monday through Friday at 10 a.m. and 11:15 a.m. — when the winery is typically the slowest — Goosecross’ standard tasting experience, including five wines and a tour, is discounted to $30. Since introducing dynamic pricing, Coors Ficeli said wine club sales are up; she suspects because guests “love feeling like they’re not getting ripped off.” Goosecross also had slightly more visitors in 2024 than in 2023.
“We were positive in visitors,” she continued. “Not a lot of (wineries) can say that.”
Yet, Goosecross isn’t the only new bargain in Wine Country. Tasting rooms seem desperate to lure in visitors, especially during the shoulder season, and fees are starting to dip. A report released last month from Silicon Valley Bank, the go-to bank for the California wine industry, stated that seven out of nine wine regions saw a small drop in tasting fees in 2023.
In January, the Napa Valley Vintners opened its “Napa Neighbors” program to all California residents, who could take advantage of discounts and deals, like two-for-one tastings. The Yountville Chamber of Commerce started a marketing initiative with 12 tasting rooms; if you’re a member of one, you can book two complimentary tastings at any of the others. In Sonoma Valley — a wine region that surrounds the city of Sonoma and includes the tiny, unincorporated communities of Glen Ellen and Kenwood — dozens of wineries will offer $15 tastings from Feb. 15 to March 15.
“When you look at it, $15 is like two premium Starbucks drinks,” said Tim Zahner, executive director of the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau, which partnered with the Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers to create the Sonoma Sips promotion. When Sonoma Sips was first announced in January, 16 wineries had signed up, but participation has since more than doubled. Each winery has a different $15 offering, but most are micro tastings of two to three wines instead of the customary four to six. Many don’t require an appointment.
“Tastings were a way to introduce someone to the product, but for some tasting rooms, it also became a way to make money,” Zahner continued. In 2012, the average winery tasting fee in the country was $8.50, according to the 2024 report from Silicon Valley Bank. By 2023, it had increased to $38. And in Napa Valley and Sonoma County, it was higher: $75 and $43, respectively.
Sonoma Sips “goes back to the classic — getting a couple of sips and seeing if you want more,” Zahner said.
One Napa winemaker was inspired to return to the golden era of free tastings. At downtown Napa’s Gamling & McDuck, people who book ahead can taste three wines at no cost. Founder Adam McClary offered free tastings as an experiment a few years ago, and in 2024, he made it a permanent offering alongside more robust tastings for $35 and $70.
McClary finds the idea of free tastings “romantic,” but admitted that “butts in seats” was the primary motivation. Almost everyone who books the free offering ends up upgrading their tasting or buying bottles. “We have a lot of confidence that if someone comes in and tries three wines, they’re going to stick around for six,” McClary continued, “and it happens.”
These micro tastings could also bring back another Wine Country pastime: visiting three or four spots in one day. Since most wineries have switched over to more formal, seated experiences that average about 90 minutes, it can be difficult to fit in more than a couple of tastings. “A seated tasting is a wonderful way to learn about wine, but it’s also a pretty big investment of your time,” said Zahner.
Kashy Khaledi, founder of Napa’s trendy Ashes & Diamonds Winery, had a similar idea when he launched the A&D Teaser ($45), a flight of three wines available at the beginning and end of each day. The winery’s standard tasting, a flight of four wines, is $60. “It’s attracting a younger demographic that’s curious,” he said; it’s also a demographic that the wine industry is struggling to recruit. “It allows them to dip their toes and learn briefly about the wines, and then maybe visit a few other wineries.”
At Rutherford’s Honig Vineyard & Winery, visitors can have the Fly by Flight tasting — three wines, 30 minutes, $30 — at any time. “What I’m seeing is people don’t want to be talked at and they don’t want to sit for 90 minutes,” said owner Michael Honig. “Wine’s not perceived as fun. It’s too stuffy, and that’s the problem with Napa. We’re not making it attainable.”
Reach Jess Lander: jess.lander@sfchronicle.com
Feb 16, 2025
Wine reporter
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