FOLLY BEACH — Zeppoles were Kira Henderson’s first foray into doughnuts, a recipe she whipped up for her New Jersey-born fiancé. They turned out “horribly,” she recalled.
But the Lancaster, Pa.-native didn’t stop there, even though her full-time job in health care analytics occupies the morning moments when baking typically occurs.
She called up her grandfather, whose farm is located in her hometown in eastern Pennsylvania. His Amish cookbooks proved to be one of two keys to doughnuts that months later started routinely selling out on Folly Beach.
The second is an unexpected but trendy ingredient: beef tallow.
In recent months, everyone from TikTok influencers to Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy has been touting the health benefits of frying in the fat trimmings of butchered cows. Many argue that the science behind those claims is shaky — but whether using it to cook french fries, chicken or doughnuts, most agree that the result can be a tasty surprise.
Henderson’s grandfather suggested she use beef tallow when he sent the cookbooks, but she wasn’t sold. She tried frying doughnuts in several other oils first, only to be disappointed by the flavor they produced.
When she finally tasted a batch dunked in bubbling beef tallow, she never went back. The not-so-secret ingredient has helped her new food truck, Island Acres Doughnuts, become a successful small business since it debuted on Folly Beach last fall.
Customers come mainly for the taste of the doughnuts themselves, whether they grab a half-dozen on the way to the beach or make a special trip. But some health conscious guests are seeking out her food truck specifically because she’s using beef tallow, Henderson said.
“People are drawn to that,” she said. “The flavor is just unmatched.”
It’s true — frying in tallow creates a light, airy pastry with just the right amount of chew. The yeasty texture toes the line between the kind of glazed treat you might find at Krispy Kreme and a classic cake doughnut.
And no, you won’t taste even a hint of meat in these doughnuts, which are hard to put down, even in this sticky, summer heat.
Henderson sells two types, sprinkling some in cinnamon sugar and coating the rest in a vanilla glaze. Most weekends, she sells about 300 within hours of opening the truck at 8 a.m.
“It’s just so fun to see people’s responses when they take a bite,” Henderson said.
Henderson and her fiancé roll the dough on Fridays and Saturdays, frying it fresh the morning of services prior to opening. The tallow is sourced from Pennsylvania, and the pair completes their prep work at a church on James Island.
Henderson envisions a future brick-and-mortar bakery downtown or on Folly Beach. If that goal were to come to fruition, you can guess what kind of oil she would use for frying.
Island Acres Doughnuts opens from 8-11 a.m. Saturday-Sunday. For more information, visit islandacresdoughnuts.com.