MOUNT PLEASANT — Standing behind a wooden chef’s counter, Ethelbert Peries clutched the black handle of a large silver spoon. Its long neck disappeared as she leaned over a broad pot, mixing up and down, then back and forth, with calm precision.
Scents of roasted curry, coriander and chili powder spilled out of the cooking vessel, into a small dining room and even out into the parking lot of this Mount Pleasant strip center.
“It smells so good!” proclaimed the diner to my right, one of about 20 prepared to experience Sri Lankan food for the first time.
In the Charleston area, Bertie’s Kitchen is the only place to do it.
The pop-up operates inside Cramer’s Kitchen, Owen Bernstein’s restaurant that opens Wednesday through Saturday. For the past year, the chef has lent the kitchen to Peries, who goes by Bertie, and her daughter, Neomi Peries, on Tuesday nights.
Many of the diners who scoop up reservations within hours after they drop discover Bertie’s Kitchen via TikTok or Instagram, Neomi Peries said. The private chef, who spends the rest of her week helping lead Bernstein’s dinner services, is grateful for the attention they have garnered since Charleston residents began posting videos of Bertie on social media.
One of those well-lit frames landed in my inbox, prompting a visit to the pop-up. I found it to be unlike any other dinner destination in the Charleston area.
Coast to coast
Guests start filing into the 700 S. Shelmore Blvd. space just before 6:30 p.m. Not long after they enter, the five chefs begin a fun foray into the food prepared by a Sri Lankan family that immigrated to the U.S.
It centers around crab curry, a dish served along the western coast of Sri Lanka, where Bertie, 80, and her husband were both born and raised. There, it’s made with mud crabs, massive crustaceans that thrive in the country’s warm, tropical environment.
Though not trained in culinary arts, Bertie is always the one in the center of the kitchen during family gatherings. In California, where the couple eventually settled down, she incorporated the region’s more plentiful Dungeness crabs into her family crab curry recipe.
That’s how she's been serving it at Bertie’s Kitchen since 2025, one year after she moved to the Lowcountry to be closer to her daughter and son-in-law, Adam McCarthy.
New to cooking in a restaurant, Bertie has an experienced partner by her side.
Neomi Peries, for her part, is a trained chef who moved to Charleston a decade ago to produce “Top Chef.” After starting as a production assistant, Peries climbed the ranks to become a food stylist and culinary producer, working with Anthony Bourdain, Padma Lakshmi and other notable chefs.
She stayed in television until 2024, transitioning from behind the screen to in front of dinner guests at private events. When she met Bernstein of Cramer’s Kitchen, and subsequently signed on to cook at his tasting menu restaurant, she had a request: She wanted one dedicated night to cook with her mom.
Bertie’s Kitchen was born.
It began as a monthly pop-up with a rotating menu. When diners began posting videos of Bertie cooking saucy crabs to be cracked and eaten by hand, word started to spread.
Eventually, the dinner moved to weekly services — and those Sri Lankan curry crabs became a fixture on the menu.
“This was a very special dinner for me growing up. It’s something that we always had for birthdays and holidays,” Neomi Peries said. “We’re serving it to you how I grew up eating it.”
The main event
Bertie begins preparations on Mondays, marinating the crabs in citrus and spices. After that, she makes the sauce, a balanced composition incorporating chopped onions and a range of spices, from curry and pandan leaves to lemongrass, chili powder, turmeric, coriander and dark roasted curry powder.
The crab curry stews and simmers in the pot until it’s time for the messy, magical main event to begin. A handful of distinct Sri Lankan-inspired small plates — or “bites,” as they’re called in the island country — commences before then.
There’s the rich riff on deviled eggs prepared by sous chef Diana Hayes, and the curry-spiced fried beef patties, which are as delicately crisp as can be.
Neomi Peries’s culinary acumen comes to the forefront with a butter lettuce salad. Dressed in a light vinaigrette of honey and olive oil, the greens are topped with local cherry tomatoes, curry-seasoned red Argentinian shrimp and pol mallung, shredded coconut tempered with onions and aromatics.
Another variation on a traditional Sri Lankan dish comes via gnocchi, the Italian dumplings coated in a coconut milk gravy named kiri hothi.
“I grew up eating kiri hothi at least once or twice a week. That was a staple as a child,” Peries said. “(Bertie) cooked it with vegetables over rice or lentils. I tried it with the sweet potato gnocchi, and it’s been a hit.”
When the last small plate is cleared, diners are directed to the crab many saw on social media. The saucy seafood lives up to any expectations they brought with them.
Plastic bibs wrapped around our necks, we pried the tender white flakes from the shell, letting the savory sauce with just a touch of heat coat the rice beneath. As we cracked and removed clean, succulent meat from the crab’s legs, claws and body, silence settled across the room.
It was the moment when guests, including us, could taste the Sri Lankan culture of the woman who grew up nearly 10,000 miles from where we sat.
From the smile on her face and the twinkle in her eyes as empty plates were cleared, I got the sense she enjoys sharing her family heritage with Charleston.
Bertie’s Kitchen reservations can be made by visiting resy.com. It shows up as Cramer’s Kitchen, but if you book a Tuesday night reservation, it will be for Bertie’s Kitchen.
Reach Parker Milner at 843-830-3911. Follow him on Twitter @parkermilner_. Subscribe to CHS Menu newsletter