NORTH CHARLESTON — Mahi mahi is arranged like dominoes on an oval platter, the sweet white meat softened by lime and ginger. The row of fish is topped with a tuft of pickled red onions and surrounded by circular Serrano slices, imparting a delicate heat.
The tiradito dorado ($14) at La Minerva Cocina & Tequila reminds me of Japanese sashimi, but with Mexican flavors. The tasty triumph eats like a fine piece of sushi, too, even if its price tag is far less rich than the fish served at top Charleston restaurants.
It’s one impressive example of the mix of fusion and traditional cooking taking place at this North Charleston newcomer, located about 30 minutes from downtown. I will happily drive that far for the restaurant’s fresh nixtamalized corn tortillas, enchiladas and other Mexican-inspired dishes.
Cuisine with provenance
La Minerva Cocina & Tequila — named after the famous Glorieta de La Minerva statue in Guadalajara, Mexico — is led by Raul Salazar and Alondra Ramirez, owners of Rio Chico.
The pair’s latest restaurant offers guests a more elevated dining experience than their more casual eatery with locations in West Ashley and on James Island. La Minerva features food inspired by Salazar’s upbringing in Guadalajara, a city that's part of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos national designation program, denoting towns considered to have high cultural importance.
The restaurant space, with its high exposed ceilings and artificial trees sprouting out of tall charcoal booths, is built for communal, all-ages dining.
Friends catch up over guacamole ($14), which fills a large molcajete. Exercise restraint when dunking the accompanying golden chips in the fresh, citrusy dip, for the more imaginative appetizers and entrees are also worthy of your attention.
Families photograph fajitas and a mother dines with her baby underneath a neon sign that reads, “Si la vida te da limone … pide sal y tequila.” (If life gives you lemons, ask for salt and tequila.)
The easygoing, unpretentious atmosphere continues further inside. Patrons share plates of tamales, paella with a Mexican slant, and carnitas braised in citrus and calm spices near a backlit bar where margaritas with salted rims are poured.
Golden wings have been erected for an Instagram moment underneath another flashy sign that reads “Dream until it’s your reality.”
The food might earn a post on your feed, too.
Fusions with finesse
What in some ways looks and feels like a typical U.S. Mexican restaurant juxtaposes a culinary program representative of food found in Mexico — with a few twists.
Stateside creations like queso fundido join forces with Oaxacan-inspired mole negro, torre de mariscos (seafood towers), adobo-marinated octopus, cochinita pibil sopes, mahi ceviche and pozole blanco (a Mexican stew with hominy, simmered pork, onion and oregano).
Tacos ($14-$18, two per order) are filled with ribeye, shrimp, braised pork or lengua. The beef tongue is diced into tender cubes, each soft, sweet and a touch bland. A shower of cilantro and onions and dip in a mildly hot verde sauce liven up the most interesting and perhaps least tasty taco filling at La Minerva.
Birria — which anchored America’s hottest taco trend in 2020 — shows up in multiple forms on La Minerva’s menu.
The chefs riff on the spicy, slow-cooked Mexican meat with their version of quesabirria — tortillas dipped in broth, crisped, filled with beef cooked in a stew and served alongside a cup of the stew’s broth. They also shuffle birria into creations from other cultures, such as ramen and egg rolls ($10).
The latter Chinese and Mexican fusion wasn’t necessarily on my bingo card heading into my second visit to the North Charleston restaurant, but it will be next time.
A snappy crust reminiscent of a wonton wrapper gives way to delicately spiced, succulent braised beef. The quartet of halved golden cylinders are accompanied by a meat and cilantro-enriched consommé for indulgent dunking, the sauce deepening one’s experience with each hearty bite.
Servers are likely to suggest familiar comforts like birria or fajitas rather than more adventurous offerings like pescado zarandeado or mole negra Oaxaca. You can meet in the middle by ordering the chile rellenos ($18), a slightly bold foray into more traditional Mexican cooking.
The dish, translating to “stuffed chiles,” typically follows a standard formula: roasted and battered poblanos packed with cheese.
La Minerva’s green peppers are filled with stretchy queso Oaxaca that pulls apart with the tug of a fork, its mild tomato sauce merging with rice on a white and blue plate that’s far too hot to touch. Warm tortillas await the flattened peppers, battered and fried so that a delightful crust has emerged.
Two meals here are just enough to scratch the surface of an offering that escapes the Americanized Mexican food served at some restaurants. Its location in North Charleston fits, for South Carolina’s third-largest city has become a mecca for Mexican cuisine, with food trucks and markets and restaurants setting the record straight on plates that honor the country’s heritage.