I’ve been coming to Florida on a very regular basis my whole life—for family holidays, Space Shuttle launches, spring training baseball, or just for a cheeky dose of sunshine. I still know the state’s highways and byways better than those of my native New Jersey. Even though Palm Beach—the most gilded of Florida’s Gold Coast towns—is going through seismic change due to the influx of younger, Northern wealth, it always manages to be its opulent, cloistered self.
For a quick weekend getaway, it’s hard to do better than The Breakers, the resort that started it all for Palm Beach. I had last visited the hotel in the ‘90s and remembered it chiefly for its stateliness (and a few hotly contested tennis games). On my approach on a recent trip, I quickly recognized that the hotel’s renowned grandeur was still very much intact.
The resort was founded in 1896 when the industrialist, oil tycoon, and namesake of many Florida roads, Henry Morrison Flagler, built The Palm Beach Inn on the site. Many guests preferred the rooms facing the sea, “down by the breakers," to the ones in the main hotel building, so when Flagler rebuilt the hotel after a 1903 fire, he changed the name. The Breakers, the new four-story, colonial-style, 425-guest-room hotel, reopened for the season the following year, and its guest register read like a roll call of the famous—and infamous—surnames of the Gilded Age. Following another tragic fire—and this time with Flagler’s heirs at the helm—the hotel underwent another expansion and welcomed back guests for the 1926-27 season as the finest resort in America.
That striking, seven-story Italianate behemoth, the focal point of 140 seafront acres, is what I saw when I drove up for a stay earlier this year. Designed by the architecture firm of Schultze & Weaver—which went on to design the Waldorf Astoria New York—The Breakers was inspired by Italy’s Villa Medici and all things Italian Renaissance, with its loggias, twin Belvedere towers, and Florentine fountain modeled on the Boboli Gardens.
Though on the surface the resort was as it ever was, a lot has changed—and is changing—thanks to a yearly budget of $30 million for upkeep, renovation, and innovation that help the hotel maintain the high standard it sets for itself. The grounds are impeccably landscaped with cacti, fruit trees, flowering pearlberry, marlberry bushes, and royal palms.
Here’s what else I found on my return to The Breakers.
The Rooms
The Breakers has 534 guest rooms, including 72 suites, some facing the sea, others with views of the resort’s lush grounds. My 460-square-foot room overlooked the breakers, and it was nice to keep the door to the small balcony cracked so I could be lulled to sleep by the sounds of the sea. (I was unable to quickly wake up, however, due to the lack of a coffee maker in my room.) The bathroom was large and well-appointed, with the decor reminiscent of grand European hotels.
Atop The Breakers sits The Flagler Club, an exclusive 21-room boutique hotel with its own dedicated staff and a rooftop club lounge. Booking a stay there includes perks such as chauffeur service in the house Mercedes-Maybach electric SUV and pre-arrival concierge assistance.
Also on site is One North Breakers Row, a cluster of 79 seafront apartments available for residential lease.
Food and Drink
The Breakers has six on-site restaurants, not including poolside dining options and in-room offerings. Breakfast is served in The Circle, a stunning space with 30-foot-high ceilings and frescoes depicting Renaissance scenes. The Italian Restaurant is the best option for picky eaters and for families, as it is practically connected to the kids’ club.
I had my first dinner at the resort on the veranda of the Flagler Steakhouse, located in the golf and tennis clubhouse. My filet was cooked to my exact specifications, and the blue crab dumplings, a specialty, lived up to the hype. An exhaustive selection of classic steakhouse sides ensured that I would overorder, and a robust list of signature cocktails helped me poke it all down. I was so full that I had to take a slice of key lime pie back to my room for midnight consumption. (My waiter advertised it as the world’s best, and it just might be.)
The following evening, I chose the Seafood Bar, where the vibe blends Italian Riviera aesthetics with a splash of South Florida kitsch. The tuna tartare tostadas and epic crab nachos—ingeniously topped with cheddar cheese grits—came highly recommended and didn’t disappoint. I also ordered a pecan-crusted grouper filet for my entrée, followed by another slice of the hotel’s terrific key lime pie.
After dinner, I stopped for drinks in HMF, the sprawling midcentury cocktail lounge adjacent to the hotel’s lobby. From my velvet armchair, I could see the wine fridges that held just some of The Breakers’ 23,000 bottles, including their signature blend, bottled exclusively in France each year. (The Breakers boasts two master sommeliers, including just the 11th woman to hold that title.) However, I went for a classic cocktail, a Manhattan, mixed expertly.
Activities and Experiences
There is plenty to do at The Breakers. The resort's new tennis center was inaugurated earlier this year. In addition to padel and the ubiquitous pickleball, it has two cushioned hard courts and six semi-covered Har-Tru clay courts, making afternoon play in the Florida heat, as well as light rain, way more appealing. But the real treat here is the four new hydroponic grass courts by Capillary Flow, whose technology has long been employed on golf courses. The courts are watered and oxygenated from below, which can generate water savings of up to 85 percent, along with superior drainage.
I was fortunate to play a game against former ATP (Association of Tennis Professionals) world No. 23 John Lloyd. Despite overnight rain, the courts were dry and remarkably level for an organic surface.
Golf has long been celebrated at the hotel, too. The Breakers has two 18-hole courses—the Ocean Course and another off-site course, recently renovated and designed by the legendary designer Rees Jones. The resort is also home to the John Webster Golf Academy, offering instruction to players of all ages and levels.
Hotel guests and club members have access to The Breakers' private beach club, with its four pools, 25 poolside cabanas, and six toasty whirlpools. Kayaking and paddleboarding are also available. When not in the Jacuzzi, I chose to spend my time in one of the cabanas, replete with a shower, private bathroom, sports on the TV, a stocked mini-fridge, and a deckhand at the push of a button.
The Spa
The indoor-outdoor spa at The Breakers is vast, with 17 treatment rooms, a nail salon, and a private courtyard. All the classic massage treatments are on offer: sports, deep tissue, maternity, and couples. There’s a special spa menu for kids that includes the unsurprisingly popular Ice Cream Mani Pedi.
Family-friendly Offerings
The Breakers is a kid’s dream—and therefore a parent’s dream. Children can partake in a range of activities, from tennis and golf lessons to art classes and laser tag. A video game lounge has both Xbox and PlayStation consoles, while the arcade has Skee-Ball and air hockey. Water sports, bike rentals, movie nights, and other activities are tailored to tweens and teens.
Connection rooms, as well as all the accouterments for babies’ and toddlers’ safety and comfort, are available upon request.
Accessibility and Sustainability
The Breakers has a 2,000-square-foot organic herb garden and buys produce from local farms during Florida’s growing season, from November through May. The hotel strives to source fresh, locally caught, and sustainable seafood. The resort has a 14-member Environmental Impact Team tasked with identifying and improving eco-friendly initiatives on the property. The Breakers does a good job of steering clear of single-use plastics, but there were a few too many plastic items in the poolside dining service.
There are plenty of accessible guest rooms and suites, along with parking and wheelchair and mobility device routes to all the hotel’s main attractions and amenities.
Location
The Breakers is about a 20-minute drive from Palm Beach International Airport (PBI). Guests could also fly in and out of Fort Lauderdale, which is an hour away. I rented a car but didn’t use it once during my stay; complimentary shuttles were available to take guests to Echo, Flagler Steakhouse, and Via Flagler.
Palm Beach’s iconic high street, Worth Avenue, replete with luxury boutiques and restaurants, is a short walk from the hotel. If you’re like me and interested in Florida’s history, the Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, located in the industrialist’s Gilded Age estate, is nearby. Art of varying caliber is everywhere in Palm Beach. I visited a group show at the Brintz + County gallery.
Book Now
The Breakers doesn't participate in any points-based loyalty programs. The resort is part of American Express Fine Hotels + Resorts portfolio and The Edit by Chase Travel. Perks for certain card members include room upgrades (based on availability), early check-in and late check-out when available, a $100 property credit, and daily breakfast for two.
Nightly rates at The Breakers start from $690 during low season (July through October) and $1,090 during peak season (November through June).
Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.