For those who live in or around it, Devens is a rather unusual place, home to a former army base until 30 years ago, when it began the transition from a military center to a mostly residential and business center (though parts do remain off limits to the public).
This community in north-central Massachusetts actually lies within three towns and doesn’t have many of the amenities you’d find in its “downtown” area, and developers of Devens have basically been given a blank slate to work with because there isn’t an existing city or town to simply redevelop.
Because of this, Devens feels oddly fresh and unique – it really doesn’t seem like any other community within an hour of Boston other than maybe Union Point, a residential development at the site of the former South Weymouth Naval Air Station that once had grand plans to become an actual city but currently is almost all residential with almost zero commercial development so far.
You may have read about Bandoleros here awhile back, and that casual upscale Mexican restaurant has helped bring people to the center of Devens, a laid-back spot that consists of a few businesses and some green space. Between Devens Common and Route 2 is a two-mile stretch of Jackson Road (the main route through Devens) that is mostly undeveloped but which also shows remnants of the old army base, about midway between the highway and the common is a large development, much of which is hidden from view but which consists of multiple structures spread across nearly 50 acres of land. This complex, called Pathway Devens, is a biomanufacturing campus that doesn’t exactly sound like a place where you would find much of anything other than workspace, but it is a modern and smartly developed hub that’s attractive and walkable.
It includes a building called the Canteen, an “amenity building” that workers and others can use as a community center of sorts. One of the centerpieces of the Canteen is a dining and drinking spot called Sterling Street Brewery that is nearly completely hidden from Jackson Road, making it virtually unknown even to those who live in adjacent towns like Harvard, Ayer and Shirley.
If the Sterling Street name rings a bell, it may be because you’ve heard of its original location in Clinton. Sterling Street Brewery debuted there in 2020, with the Devens location opening in 2024, and because this second location sits within the sprawling Pathway Devens campus — and is one of the only places to get a bite to eat and an alcoholic beverage along this particularly rural stretch of Route 2 — it feels like a bit of an oasis, and an attractive one at that.
The Canteen is a bright, colorful, welcoming building that has an almost artsy feel to it. The space in which Sterling Street resides is spacious and airy, with a high ceiling and lots of light coming in from its floor-to-ceiling windows, and its exposed beams and pipes along with its steel walls and bar give it a modern industrial vibe. Customers can sit at the bar or grab any number of tables within the main space, and during the warmer months, an outdoor patio is set up as well.
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PHOTOS: Beer, food and murals and Sterling Street Brewery in Devens
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Much like the Clinton location, Sterling Street Brewery in Devens puts much of its focus into community activities, including trivia, paint nights and the like, and you may see food trucks set up here as well, only adding to the community feel. But Sterling Street does have its own small kitchen focused on appetizers and sandwiches — don’t expect full dinners here, though you can bring in outside food (or hit the aforementioned food trucks).
The panini options should satisfy most customers, with such options as chicken parmigiana, BLT, grilled cheese and bacon, fig and goat cheese, buffalo chicken and a spicy Italian, and wraps are available as well. For those who might just want a snack with their beer, tater tots, pretzels, pizza bagels and garlic knots are on the menu, along with arcade snacks, sweet treats and even dog treats, if the dog-friendly patio is open.
Much like the nearby Dirigible Brewery, which sits just off the Route 2/I-495 intersection in Littleton, Sterling Street tends to strike a balance between European beers and IPAs.
The Lighten Up is a slightly sweet and wonderful take on a German-style helles lager while the Channel Z is an easy-to-drink hefeweizen, and the Talamore is a classic farmhouse ale with a hint of spice and some tartness coming from the use of cranberries.
On the IPA side are three New England IPAs (Sabotage 6, Hop Vice, and Otherwise), all of which have a citrusy flavor and differ in the types of hops used. Another hazy ale called Newfound Pale is a good option if you prefer session ales (this one comes in at 4.6% ABV).
One of the highlights at Sterling Street is the Gingerbread Snuggles, which is a hearty winter ale that’s perfect for a raw chilly night, and for those who prefer their beers simple, the Hello Devens is a quaffable blonde ale that’s a great alternative to the light and malty mass-market American beers.
Finally, lovers of fruit beers can choose from Sweet Cecilia, a tart raspberry sour, or Tri Town Flava, a raspberry pastry stout for those who have a sweet tooth.
Even though it has been a long time since Fort Devens became Devens, it still feels strange to drive into this unique little community that can almost seem like somewhere you aren’t supposed to be. But Devens is (mostly) open to all these days, and it suddenly has a bit of a dining and drinking scene, thanks to Bandoleros and this second location of Sterling Street Brewery, which has quickly become a favorite spot for those who live and/or work in this quiet little area less than an hour from Boston.
Sterling Street Brewery, 65 Jackson Road, Devens, MA, 01434. sterlingstreetbrewery.com