GUILFORD — To make the best pizza dough, you must be relaxed and “do it with heart,” said the chef-owner of the new Lorenzo’s II, a sister of the famed Lorenzo’s Ristorante Italiano in West Haven.
“You’ve got to be very calm,” said co-owner Leonel Lopez, who is partnered with the proprietors of the original Lorenzo’s, in business since the 1980s. Lopez had worked in the West Haven kitchen for 20 years.
And if he’s feeling stressed that day, Lopez said he tries to “cool off first and then you make it.” Patience is also key: “You stay there – you can’t leave the machine.”
Diners come from as far away as East Haven to the leafy plaza at 516 Route 80 in North Guilford for the Margherita pizza, his daughter Jennifer Lopez said.
Also popular is the banoffi, a banana cream and Oreo crust confection. Many order the Sicilian pizza, a square pie with a thick, but tender crust. Mashed potato pizza is another hit with customers.
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“We want to bring the same kind of quality food, the same taste that people would get in West Haven, bringing it over here in Guilford,” daughter Jennifer Lopez said.
“It's a little bit of a food desert out here” she said referring to their location on a rural road.
Fresh house-made pastas such as gnocchi, cavatelli, lasagna, and pappardelle are on the menu made by the Coletta’s mother Assunta Coletta.
Lopez’s partners, brothers Lorenzo and Luciano Coletta, chose the location when it came up for rent after the former Farina Restaurant & Pizzeria closed earlier this year. The plaza is also family-owned.
“We like it up here," said Luciano Coletta. "There's a lot of opportunity to grow up here."
But the partners had hoped it would be a turnkey eatery.
“We thought we didn't have to do too much, but we ended up gutting the whole place," Luciano Coletta said.
New flooring, ceiling and lighting were installed and the dining area was prettied up. The kitchen was also upgraded with new stoves, ovens and pasta cookers. They kept the original brick pizza oven.
Lopez is one of the West Haven eatery’s two pizza dough chefs and it’s a job that demands talent, Lorenzo Coletta said.
He noted that they do New Haven style, with a more well-done crust, as well as cauliflower crusts, double crusts and Sicilian pizza.
They get a lot of calls for “the Sicilians,” he said, “because everything is New Haven style.”
But it’s here that dough-making skills are tested.
The dough is “flash cooked” the day before to make sure the crust will be cooked through, he said. Often other pizzerias may just double their dough to make a Sicilian pizza, which yields an undercooked middle, but not at Lorenzo’s.
Even though it is a thicker crust pizza, it’s not heavy. And that’s because the dough is allowed to rise for three to four hours, Luciano Coletta said.
“You got to give them time to rise," he said. "So, like I said, that's the key.”
When it comes to New Haven-style pizza, Lorenzo Coletta said, “Everybody chases the New Haven pizza. The pizza at New Haven is good everywhere.”
He might know a thing or two about pizza and Italian food. Lorenzo Coletta started in the restaurant business at age 13 busing tables at Danny’s Expresso in West Haven.
Danny’s was part of a local chain of popular Italian eateries often located in strip malls also in East Haven, Branford, Guilford, New Haven, North Haven and Hamden.
In 1979, Lorenzo Coletta joined Luigi’s in West Haven, then considered part of the New Haven pizza tradition, and in 1983 became a part-owner.
Luigi’s was rechristened as Lorenzo’s in 1987 after his brother Luciano became his partner, buying the other owners out.
Lorenzo’s, a family owned and run eatery, has had a nearly 40-year history in West Haven. It’s long been a popular spot for hosting events for West Haven sports teams and political and community groups, in addition to Yale University functions.
“We've been there a long time," Lorenzo Coletta said. "We're a big part of the community. You know, we love it. We love West Haven."
Now they are planning to bring a taste of West Haven to Route 80, Guilford.