MADISON — It’s been a long road for restaurateur Francesco Lulaj, owner of Killingworth’s La Foresta, to achieve his dream and open Madison Prime Steakhouse.
A suited Lulaj recently stood tall a few hours before the first official dinner service as the aroma of sizzling steaks teased the air. He glanced at his watch but beamed as town officials trickled into the new high-end eatery, completely transformed from when it was the old Madison Winter Club at 251 Boston Post Road.
He said he wasn’t nervous, but was eager to open later in the evening after the years it took to get there.
“I feel now I need to open," he said. "I know everything is perfect."
The old New England décor of the Winter Club was replaced with bold design elements, including imposing 5-foot-tall brass wall sconces from Paris and lots of white Carrara marble, crystal and rich brown leatherette — “the best of the best,” Lulaj said.
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“I want it to be perfect," he added. "I didn’t spare anything."
Some details aren’t obvious to the casual observer, such as the mother-of-pearl inlaid wallpaper in the ladies’ room at $10,000 a sheet. But patrons can’t miss the sweeping panoramic mural of a larger-than-life herd of cattle in the club’s former ballroom, now a vast bar area.
His wife, Cassandra Lulaj, had her doubts when her husband had met with a local painter to figure out what to do with the huge blank wall and decided to “do cows as wallpaper".
“And I said, ‘So two guys decided to do cows as wallpaper?’” she recalled laughing. “And I was like, ‘Let me see this thing. Oh my God, you're going to mess this up.’ He put it up and I love it.”
The bar area, with white marble tables for two and a plush banquette, is meant for both intimate and casual dining. Eating full-course meals or nibbling at the oversized bar is encouraged.
“You feel comfortable. It's not just for a drink," Cassandra Lulaj said. "You can come here on your own, by yourself. You can come with a date. That's our hope."
She describes Madison Prime’s décor as “masculine, modern steakhouse” with coastal elements.
Francesco Lulaj spent about $4 million on the project, including the $1.2 million purchase, legal costs for the town approval process, and extensive renovations with a state-of-the-art stainless steel kitchen, he said.
He discovered a nasty surprise as he renovated the kitchen and interior: blackened joists under floor boards, six levels deep in the kitchen, and beneath wall board, charred studs from a fire in the 1950s, which required a complete rebuild inside.
But he kept the Winter Club’s original bar and fireplace mantelpiece, in addition to the plaque honoring club members on one wall.
Outside, Francesco Lulaj installed a new septic system, redid the parking lots and landscaping.
It took several years to get here with Francesco Lulaj going to a dozen or so town meetings to get approvals.
Once he had the go ahead, he acted as his own general contractor, directing tradespeople and making purchases. For the past several months, his wife said he was working every day from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.
“We’re both built like that — very just driven and hardworking,” Cassandra Lulaj said.
Despite being turned down by the town in 2021, Francesco Lulaj was determined and repeatedly returned with his plans. Just two months before opening, he made his last appearance before the Planning and Zoning Commission.
“That's him. That's who he is,” said his wife. “I think part of it is his culture. He comes from Albania. He was born in a very rough upbringing with what's going on in government politics and communism. It made him a fighter from the beginning.”
Francesco Lulaj's journey from his homeland in Albania to Connecticut turned out to be a lucky one.
After the communist regime failed in Albania, Francesco Lulaj and several others from his hometown, fled to Italy where he started working as a dishwasher in a restaurant also called La Foresta.
“Leaving Albania was more anxious than hard," he said. "It was the same as when I left Italy."
In Rome, the chef-owner took the young Francesco Lulaj under his wing, promoting him to waiter, then teaching him by his side.
“I loved the way people felt about eating out and enjoying each other’s company," Francesco Lulaj said. "It was there that I got to love the food service industry. It is an amazing satisfaction when you serve people with great food and service, and they are happy."
Francesco moved to the U.S. and worked at Il Molino, Ninos, San Pietro’s in New York before teaming up with two cousins to buy Adriana’s in New Haven.
He never forgot his experience in Italy though.
“It was a longtime dream of mine to open a restaurant with the same name as the first restaurant that I learned everything,” he said.
When Lulaj bought the “empty run-down building in Killingworth,” which he turned into La Foresta, he called his mentor Gino Ferri, who owned La Foresta in Rome. He asked Ferri if he could use the name of his restaurant for his new venture.
“He was amazed and so happy to hear about my success,” Francesco Lulaj said.
Though he is thrilled to open Madison Prime, he said, “La Foresta has a special place in my heart no matter how many restaurants I had or have now.”
Opportunity struck again when the Winter Club closed in 2021. He saw the vacant building and immediately thought it would be the perfect spot for steakhouse.
His wife also has strong ties to restaurants. Cassandra Lulaj said she’s been working in them for the past 29 years since she was 13.
She met her husband while a waitress at Adriana’s where she started as a “little bus girl” and ended up working her way through grad school.
Now, a school psychologist at Middletown’s Xavier High School and Mercy High School, and mother of four boys, she's also managed La Foresta while he focused on the Madison eatery.
Francesco Lulaj is especially proud of the 32-ounce tomahawk steak on the menu. He said all the beef he serves is prime grade from the Allen Brothers in Chicago.
He said he tries to price the steaks reasonably and not just for the summer crowd.
“I want the locals to be able to afford all,” he said and for Madison Prime “to be their restaurant.”
First Selectman Peggy Lyons said Madison Prime will be a destination for people all over Connecticut.