Linn County opening marks new chapter in rapid growth
Elijah Decious
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MARION — A rapidly rising bakery concept, proofed in Solon over the past three years, is ready to be rolled out in Marion.
Since its first 2021 opening in Solon, The Eat Shop’s owner has been bringing back treats last sold by her great-aunt Mary Ann Drahos, whose bakery by the same name closed in Cedar Rapids almost 75 years ago.
Now, after several cafe partnerships and two openings at the University of Iowa, the bakery is opening its first Linn County location to serve as a flagship with offerings from every other shop — plus a few new things.
“We’re marrying our formats,” owner Cheryl Maloney said. “Solon is our headquarters, and this is our flagship.”
The Eat Shop’s largest location by far will open Feb. 1.
If you go
What: The Eat Shop
Address: 1107 Seventh Ave., Suite 101, Marion
Website: theeatshop.com/
Phone: (319) 200-1107
Hours: To be determined. Opens Feb. 1, 2025.
Details: Find the full line of The Eat Shop’s signature baked goods along with new fresh-baked bread, hot sandwiches, soups and salads, espresso and coffee, and alcoholic beverages. Available in their dining room or for carryout.
What’s inside?
With more than 3,300 square feet of dining and kitchen space, The Eat Shop’s new opening brings a bakery with elements of a cafe to a convenient spot at Marion Square.
A glamorous, monochromatic interior is warmed by wood beam accents, as black acoustic paneling makes for quieter conversation. French cafe-style woven chairs, inspired by a bar at the Ritz-Carlton in Miami, offer seating for 40 inside beneath glitzy glass chandeliers. On the other side of the exterior wall, a patio for 24 awaits warmer weather in Iowa.
Great-aunt Mary’s desk, as well as a phone booth from the 1940s, offer a nod to The Eat Shop’s origins, along with its largest and most ambitious opening to date.
A private room offers a pop of color that will brighten activities inside — decorator shops, evening baking classes or private parties for small groups.
And if the baked goods aren’t stimulating enough, take a look at the staff making them through large kitchen windows running parallel to the main seating area. There, patrons can watch the bustling magic of making pastries with six ovens, work tables lining the walls and giant commercial mixers that dwarf the Solon bakery’s capacity.
“Anywhere we can bake, we’re baking,” Maloney said.
The new location will be open seven days a week, with plans for early morning and mid-afternoon hours to satisfy both the early birds and the night owls warming up to the day.
New food
In addition to the signature baked goods that have fueled The Eat Shop’s rapid growth — cookies, pies, cinnamon rolls, kolaches and more — the Marion location will have a bevy of favorites that have been developed outside Solon.
Fresh bread, made on site, will be a centerpiece of the new bakery, with fixed and rotating options like Shokupan Japanese milk bread, French baguettes, brioche and focaccia.
Next to the front counter’s large pastry cases, patrons can pop in to find a quick bite for breakfast or lunch with hot sandwiches, soups, salads, flatbreads and more.
Breakfast and lunch options, developed through two University of Iowa campus locations opened since August 2023, have tested a separate line of goodies previously outside The Eat Shop’s main area of expertise.
Diners can expect favorites like the Holiday Turkey with cranberry chutney on a lightly-toasted croissant, or the Very Cherry with ham, cheese and cherry chutney. The burger with ground sirloin on a brioche bun, a popular option on campus, also may make an appearance in Marion.
The array of sandwiches can also take advantage of The Eat Shop’s new bread options.
Wash it all down with wine, beer or other cocktails to lighten your day and complement the carbs that make life worth living.
Although it has a distinctly adult feel, the new space will be kid-friendly, too. Children’s menu options of $5 or less will appeal to younger diners, with macaroni and cheese and sandwiches on King’s Hawaiian sweet rolls — all served with a side of edible cookie dough.
A new chapter
When Maloney moved from Chicagoland to Solon, she didn’t know what to expect.
“You need to know what you’re doing works and that people like it,” she said.
But with several major cafe partnerships, two University of Iowa campus openings and a Solon kitchen expansion in under three years, the proof of concept has risen enough to put in the oven.
After double-digit growth year after year, Maloney was looking for room to branch out in Eastern Iowa. In a short time, her business has grown from seven employees to about 30, with plans for a staff of about 50 by the time the Marion location opens next year.
In addition to their locations, The Eat Shop’s pastries have been distributed throughout Johnson County through partnerships with Sidekick Coffee & Books and Coffee Emporium. In the meantime, The Eat Shop has doubled its production space in Solon by expanding into Briar Ridge Bike Shop’s former storage space.
“We rolled 500 cinnamon rolls this morning in an hour and 15 minutes,” she told The Gazette in November — a sharp contrast to what was, at times, a single employee with a rolling pin at the beginning. “We have expanded when we’re bursting at the seams.”
She considered North Liberty, Davenport and several locations around Cedar Rapids and Marion, including the former Sykora Bakery building in the Czech Village, the old Dash Coffee Roasters building and the historic Maid Rite building in Marion.
As she explored the new development on Marion Square, the large space required a leap of faith.
“It felt like trying on a wedding dress I couldn’t afford. It was way bigger than I was thinking,” Maloney said.
But as she envisioned what she could do with the space, she was sold on the new build out. The district’s walkable neighborhood was a key fit for The Eat Shop, which has grown without any advertising or marketing other than word-of-mouth.
With a similar demographic to the target audience for Uptown Marion’s other growing shops and businesses, she hopes to bring added value as a bona fide community partner.
Even with her team’s rapid and mostly unsolicited growth, the baker from corporate America with a master’s in business administration still feels out of place.
“We’re surrounded by Big Grove and Barrett’s (Quality Eats), and classically trained chefs,” she said. “I feel a little bit like I’m in a world I’m not supposed to be in.”
But, culinary degree or not, baking has been in her family for generations. And if the community’s response is any indication, there’s no sign of that changing any time soon.
Comments: Features reporter Elijah Decious can be reached at (319) 398-8340 or [email protected].