Linn County restaurant becomes first from Iowa to make the list
MOUNT VERNON — A small town restaurant has earned international recognition as one of the best pizzerias in America.
Lincoln Winebar in Mount Vernon was unveiled Tuesday on influential pizza guide 50 Top Pizza’s list of the greatest pizzerias in the United States. The restaurant, owned by Jesse Sauerbrei, came in 46th out of 50 on a list dominated by big players across the country’s largest metropolitan areas.
Lincoln Winebar, 125 First St. W., is from one of the least populated towns to make the list, and appears to be the first restaurant from Iowa to ever be named to the Italian media organization’s U.S. rankings.
“It’s a big deal to me because of everybody else that’s on the list. It’s the who’s who of pizza places in the country,” said Sauerbrei. “To be on a list in a small town in Iowa … it means a lot to me, and I think it should mean a lot to Mount Vernon having a little gem here.”
The international ranking comes a year after the Mount Vernon staple made the New York Times list of 22 best pizzas for its wood-fired, artisan style.
“The scene is so familiar inside the Lincoln — the chalkboard menu, the natural wine, the 30-somethings comparing notes about their favorite podcasts — a visitor could easily forget they’re in a small town on the outskirts of Cedar Rapids,” New York Times restaurant critic Brett Anderson said. “But you won’t forget for long.”
Anderson praised the restaurant for its use of local ingredients, including morels, seasonal asparagus, Iowa pepperoni and hot honey — a distinct style among Iowa pizzas.
50 Top Pizza, first published in 2017, releases influential industry guides each year covering Asia, Latin America, Europe, Italy and the United States. Italian pizzerias are ranked separately from the rest of Europe.
Rankings are determined annually by pizza inspectors who travel the world to try restaurants that have been identified. American rankings are determined by inspectors based in the United States.
Pizzerias are assessed by comprehensive criteria including wine and beer available, service, hospitality and the pizza itself. Rankings cannot be earned by external nominations.
In Sauerbrei’s experience, the evaluation and notification was subtle. He remembers being suspicious of one diner choosing a very specific spot in the restaurant, taking a visual survey of the restaurant’s dining room and intently taking notes as she ate.
“I thought it was some person from the writing school at (the University of) Iowa, or somebody reviewing something,” he recalled.
In April, he almost ignored the email in his personal inbox inviting him to accept Lincoln Winebar’s placement at the list’s New York City release party Tuesday evening. Sauerbrei’s acceptance included a custom chef’s jacket and plaque.
“I was floored — I was like no way, dude,” said Sauerbrei, who has watched the annual list for years. “I thought we’ll get passed by, nobody notices us.”
The list, which appears to prefer restaurants with a Neapolitan style, is dominated by big names running well-known restaurants in large cities. Last year’s list included Una Pizza Napoletan and Ribalta in New York, Pizzeria Beddia in Philadelphia, and Robert’s in Chicago — all of whom made this year’s list, as well.
Another name on the list for three consecutive years, Pizza Delicious in New Orleans, influenced the startup style of Fancy’s Pizza, Sauerbrei’s second shop in Cedar Rapids that only serves about 70 pies a week through Instagram orders.
Sauerbrei hopes to capitalize on the new attention by continuing Lincoln Winebar’s quality and aspiring to maintain the annual ranking. He also hopes to expand the business hours at Fancy’s Pizza next year.
“I don’t want to be a one-and-doner. I want to continue to prove to ourselves that we deserve to be on the list alongside all the other names on the list,” he said. “It’s not just the pizza, it’s the whole pizzeria — the service, the wine list, us dusting off the fans because there’s flour there all the time. I think that’s a really cool thing.”
Comments: Features reporter Elijah Decious can be reached at (319) 398-8340 or [email protected].
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