Calyx Creek shows versatility in lavender that tastes as good as it looks
The Gazette offers audio versions of articles using Instaread. Some words may be mispronounced.
OXFORD — Every summer, lavender blossoms in season. But this year, lavender is coming into style across Johnson County.
As lavender lattes, lavender scones and more trend at national restaurants and retailers, one of the few Iowa farms growing the herb is localizing it in Johnson County.
When they opened last summer, owners Taylor and Stephanie Getting knew the versatility of lavender. For months, Calyx Creek has sold infused cosmetics like lotions, massage oils and tallow balm — products that appeal through scent.
Before long, national trends manifested locally in their organic sales numbers when the owners realized three of their top five selling products were edible.
“Why would we not want to meet that need with Iowa grown lavender? You get to experience lavender visually, cosmetically and edibly,” Taylor said.
This year, the trend is coming into full bloom through another growing sensory avenue: taste. On their shelves, visitors can find traditionally infused options like simple syrups, sugars and teas. Other more novel products go a step further with brownie mixes, scone mixes, salts and extracts.
Now, there are even more offerings taking it to the next level. From North Liberty to Iowa City, you can taste local lavender without stepping foot on the farm.
Partnerships with local businesses like A Chocolate Studio, Maggie’s Farm and Barrett’s Quality Eats are bringing a new floral profile to chocolate ganache, sweet notes to pizza and unexpected surprises to barbecued meats.
“People want to experience the beauty, they want to go pick, but they want to taste,” Taylor said. “A lot of people think lavender is lavender, but there’s a huge difference between culinary and craft lavender.”
What: Calyx Creek Lavender & Lodging
Where: 1722 255th St. NW, Oxford, Iowa 52322
Details: Enjoy one of Iowa’s largest dedicated lavender farms through a variety of experiences that offer public access to 8,000 French, English and hybrid plants through culinary products, you-pick, classes, demonstrations, on-site lodging and more.
How they’ve grown
In the last year since opening, the 20-acre property’s sprawl has intensified from about 5,000 plants to 8,000 — half of which are varieties for culinary uses.
Royal Velvet lines a new labyrinth with a medium violet, while English and French breeds like Gros Bleu and Melissa yield qualities and oil suitable for the kitchen.
Lavender blooms in the summer, but now it will bloom throughout the season at the farm thanks to the diversification.
Calyx Creek has doubled its drying racks and quadrupled its product portfolio. It has also added seven honey combs, a full onsite hive, and a still that can turn 50 pounds of lavender into dozens of oil jars for products like insect repellent.
Adjacent fields, currently used for corn, leave more room for lavender growth, should they need it.
“We say lavender is a powerhouse herb,” Taylor said. “What other kind of herb out there can make an effective bug spray, but also a very delicious blueberry (Moscow) mule, or ice cream, or what have you?”
Experiences on the farm have diversified, too. In addition to its other classes, visitors can learn how to make lavender-infused chocolates or pry open the honey combs to see what’s inside.
A new way to escape
With AirBnb options and experiences in or out of the field, the couple opened the farm as a new kind of escape.
Tasting lavender ice cream made by Heyn’s and lavender chocolates from A Chocolate Studio — both sold only at the farm, for now — are an extension of that vision. Local collaborations between chefs and food creators are paving new entry points that lead visitors to the gravel roads of Oxford.
“If that’s their first experience, we want it to be a very positive experience,” Stephanie said. “We hope it’s that open invitation to come on-site to escape the day.”
It’s been fun for them to watch food producers think outside the box and demonstrate lavender’s culinary versatility. But what’s more rewarding is seeing others take the first bite.
“Most people have never eaten lavender before,” Taylor said. “You see it in people’s eyes — they’re escaping the everyday.”
Collaborations
Lavender ice cream by Heyn’s Ice Cream in Iowa City was one of the first collaborations Calyx Creek commissioned.
Owner Peggy Cullivan tried making it many years ago as a wedding request, before lavender was a market of its own.
Back then, she had to get creative by taking the flower’s calyx and soaking it in the ice cream’s base. Today, the process is much easier — just add Calyx Creek’s simple syrup to a base of 14 percent butterfat ice cream from Anderson Erickson in the right proportion.
Next year, she plans to carry it in her own dipping cabinet.
Her stores carry 40 flavors, but collaborations like this are a special treat for Heyn’s. The last one was a blueberry cheesecake ice cream to complement a beer at Field Day Brewing in North Liberty.
Other past trends haven’t sold as well. Flavors like maple bacon and sweet corn ice cream were too uncertain for customers to commit to buying. Striking a balance in a flavor’s prominence can be challenging.
But she thinks this flavor, a subtle elevation of lavender in sweet cream, will be different.
“To keep up with our numbers, it’s a lot (of lavender,)” Cullivan said. “We’ll end up selling a lot out of our doors.”
This one was designed to the taste of the Gettings. It’s rare for outside collaborators to have a heavy hand in the formulation of new ice cream flavors, but she won’t change a thing when she produces more next year.
“We wanted to make sure it was what they wanted to represent their lavender,” she said. “I’ll stay consistent with what they’ve chosen, because they’re the lavender experts.”
Chocolatier Anne Goddard, owner of A Chocolate Studio in North Liberty, was introduced to the lavender by a client.
“I said sure, I’ll try it. And I love a challenge,” Goddard said.
For months, she experimented with batch after batch to perfect a signature 4-piece box with dark chocolate, white chocolate, lavender lemon and lavender honey.
Lavender is infused into chocolate by steeping the calyx into a ganache’s cream. Tiny increases in lavender concentrations, from 3.2 percent to 3.4 percent, make a dramatic difference in taste from the potent herb.
“It’s very floral. There’s a fine line, you don’t want it to taste like soap,” she said.
Goddard tries several new flavors each year to keep up with trends. Last year, she tried Mexican hot chocolate with cinnamon and jalapeno. This fall, she’ll bring in cardamom chai.
She doesn’t collaborate with other businesses often. But the relationship she had enjoyed with Calyx Creek may make her feel more comfortable in collaborating with flavor profiles outside her comfort zone, she said.
“Everybody’s got to eat. People are hungry for more experiences and more flavors,” said Taylor. “That’s why lavender is starting to gain some traction.”
Comments: Features reporter Elijah Decious can be reached at (319) 398-8340 or [email protected].
Get the latest restaurant news, food reviews and insider tips from the Chew on This newsletter.