Some restaurants feel familiar from the moment you walk through the door. They have a lived-in aura, a sense of welcoming warmth that can be hard to come by.
Varka in Ramsey is one of those restaurants.
Ringing in their 20th year of business this March, the Mastorakos family’s commitment to delivering high quality, authentic and consistently delicious Greek cuisine is the driving force that has made Varka such a Bergen County staple.
General manager Stavros Angelakos tells NJ Advance Media he grew up in the business with his father and uncle, who owned a Greek restaurant in New York back in the ‘80s.
“(They) saw an opportunity to open something similar in New Jersey.”
What did Varka do to stand out in the Garden State? The eatery claims it was the first Greek restaurant in New Jersey to offer guests the ability to select their own fresh fish from their daily display.
“People thought we were crazy and that it wouldn’t work in New Jersey, but we felt that it was something that Bergen County was missing.” Angelakos said.
Varka is a true family affair — the restaurant is owned by Angelakos' cousin, Theo Mastorakos. And the the family is constantly updating the eatery to maintain a fresh experience for their loyal guests.
“Varka means ‘boat’ (in Greek), that’s why we have the big fish boat display, which we built ourselves,” Angelakos said. “We had to rebuild after 12 years because it takes a lot of abuse. We also just fully redid the bar.”
I popped in on a snowy Saturday afternoon after many years of desiring to visit, excited to experience their lunch pre-fix menu, along with some tempting additions.
The good
After a few bites of crusty bread dipped in imported Greek extra virgin olive oil and complimentary hummus, I dove right into the lunch pre-fixe ($36), and ordered some other a la carte items to try. From the starters offered, I chose the spinach pie.
The sizable, rectangular pastry was baked until crispy and packed with leek and and feta-scented spinach. I loved how light and flaky the phyllo was against the almost creamy filling, and would definitely order this again.
A Varka classic, the octopus appetizer ($23) was also stellar. Sporting a prominent char, each ultra-tender piece of tentacle was juicy and tender, pairing well with the sweet red onions and peppers. The briny capers rounded out the flavors for a light and zesty bite.
I’m a sucker for the fried vegetable stacks that famous Greek restaurants have come to be known for, and Varka’s version did not disappoint. The Varka chips ($19), a substantial plate of thinly sliced, fried and seasoned eggplant and zucchini, were addictive — especially when dipped into accompanying homemade tzatziki.
Another starter that knocked my socks off was the lobster gyros ($22). Served taco-style, the set of 3 mini gyro packed big flavor. The dish features minced lobster mixed with shrimp paste that is rolled into logs. They’re then cooked, tucked into mini pitas and topped with both diced cucumber tomato relish and tzatziki. I could’ve kept popping these fresh little flavor bombs all day if I knew I didn’t have a few mains on the way.
I opted for the fish of the day for my main — sea bass, chargrilled and served with a stack of roasted vegetables. The filet was mild and tender, simply topped with lemon and a touch of chili oil. I loved the simplicity of it all, allowing the freshness of the fish to really shine through.
After noticing that the dinner menu had an entire section dedicated to a slew of wine and spirit-infused seafood creations called “Tipsy Lobsters,” FOMO started setting in. The staff kindly allowed me to order what I heard was a crowd favorite, the “Angry Lobster” ($42 per pound), half of a lobster sautéed with garlic, basil, oven-dried tomato and red pepper flakes.
The dish came with a choice of vegetables or pasta. I went with the latter, which immediately delivered as the superior option. The tipsiness of the lobster came through with a nice punch of white wine, which created a luxurious sauce that enrobed everything perfectly. Decadent yet light, this was by far my favorite dish of the entire meal.
Why would anyone order a side of beans? Well, when they’re gigantes, you just do. Varka’s gigantes ($13) were exactly what I expected — large, creamy beans served stew-style in a thick tomato sauce, seasoned with dill and onion. Savory and slightly sweet, they were a nice hearty bite on a snowy day.
Varka has an extensive martini menu, so it only felt natural to sample one. I opted for their espresso martini ($15), a mild mix of Stoli vanilla vodka, Kahlua and espresso, topped with ground espresso beans. Served in a gorgeous goblet, it was on the lighter side for a martini and very went down smooth.
With very little room to spare, I couldn’t resist a taste of the loukoumathes, the third selection in my lunch pre-fixe. Similar to Italian zeppole, these fried orbs of doughy goodness hit every note. Denser than zeppole, they were soft on the inside and had an incredible outer crust from being dipped and drenched in a fragrant syrup of orange, apple and sugar. The whole dish was topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar, which made for a sweet and spicy, albeit heavy, delight.
The bad
If I had to nitpick, the Varka chips left me with greasy fingers and the spaghetti in the Angry Lobster was a touch overcooked. Both were negligible issues considering the overall greatness of the meal, but worth mentioning.
The vibe
Dining at Varka felt like a trip to a classic Greek taverna one would find somewhere in the homeland. Warm woods, exposed beams, terracotta pots and fresh fish display create a sense of place that’s wasn’t kitschy or overdone. White tablecloths add a level of elegance without the stuffiness, which makes Varka a great place for a date, or an evening out with family or friends.
The bar is its own entity and get crowded, especially on weekends. With a strong local following, Varka pulls a crowd and offers a laid-back yet sophisticated place with a social element, fitting nicely into Bergen County’s dining landscape.
The bottom line
Varka is a timeless Greek classic that’s worth the trip to Ramsey. After a nearly flawless meal, it’s easy to see why they have remained a North Jersey destination for 20 years. Varka is open 7 days a week, 6 days for lunch, an on Sunday, for dinner only.
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Stephanie Rizzolo may be reached at [email protected]. Find NJ.com on Facebook.
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