The bitter cold conditions that have gripped Western North Carolina since the start of the year have some folks longing for a blanket and a warm fire. But for some of the region's more adventurous souls, icy conditions mean contemplating ways to cut out from work early and scout the best slabs of ice to slam a pick into.
Ice climbing may not be the first adventure sport that comes to mind when thinking of Western North Carolina, but there are some unique opportunities for exhilirating and memorable climbs that only Appalachia can offer.
Stuart Cowles, owner and guide at Climbmax Climbing and Smoky Mountain Adventure Center in Asheville, says when conditions are right, the area can offer some absolutely spectacular ice climbing opportunities. He moved to the area to start his climbing gym 25 years ago, after living and ice climbing in New Hapmshire and Colorado.
Monday, Cowles, along with wife Rose Cowles and friend and camp director Jason McDougald, took to a newly dedicated ice climbing area in Gerton, the Little Bearwallow Rock and Ice Climbing Area. The propoerty was dedicated by Conserving Carolina to noted climber and outdoor advocate John Myers.
Making the most of the frozen conditions, Cowles and McDougald were headed for a late try at Linville Falls after a couple of laps on the 200-plus-foot Little Bearwallow climb.
The Asheville area offers some ice climbing opportunities other places don't, Cowles said, thanks to its high mountains and the Blue Ridge Parkway. Even when closed for ice, the Parkway is often accessible on foot, providing access to ice climbing locales like Graveyard Fields.
Climbers in the area are also fortunate, thanks to the North Carolina weather, to sometimes be able to go for an ice climb in the morning and go for a run in a T-shirt in the afternoon.
This most recent cold snap has also opened up climbing opportunities outside the norm, freezing over high-volume waterfalls that don't freeze regularly, such as Linville Falls and Catawba Falls, which McDougald climbed recently.
Overall, the season in North Carolina is unpredictable. Cowles said he's had climbs as early as Thanksgiving and as late as March.
After hiking up to Little Bearwallow on the newly minted Wildcat Rock Trail from Gerton Highway, Cowles said the first things ice climbers will look at when considering a climb is whether the ice is contiguous across the rock.
They will also consider whether it's thick enough to take a screw (a specially designed screw to be used as an ice climbing anchor), if there's water running behind it — an indication that the rock is warmer than the ice and there could be a separation — and more, like how it behaves when struck with a pick.
Both Cowles and McDougald were highly satisfied with the ice at Little Bearwallow Monday, striking picks into it with one swing and a satisfying crunch.
Cowles started the climb off, following the thickest section up from the bottom of the falls to the top, installing screws as he went. He occasionally gave a warning shout of "ice!" when the pick broke free chunks that fell and slid down to the bottom before Rose Cowles and McDougald followed up after him, making steady progress with picks in each hand and digging crampons into the ice with quick kicks.
It was a pleasant surprise to find no one else climbing there, he said. Little Bearwallow is one of the fairly popular spots to climb in the area, alongside others such as Highway 215, Graveyard Fields and more. But seeking out new icy places to climb is also a favorite, via hard work that Cowles calls "Appalachianeering."
There are a plethora of other climbs, he said, though to reach them, climbers may have to make their way under thick rhododnendrons or bushwhack their way through briar patches. It's a real treat to emerge at the foot of a 60-foot flow that may or may not ever have been climbed, however.
That backcountry slog is half the fun, Cowles added. And the sport is gaining in popularity, contributing its share to the area's outdoor recreation economy. Cowles cautions that it's an expensive and dangerous sport to jump into, and recommends that first-timers start with a guided trip.
For Cowles and McDougald, it's still the rareity of ice climbing in Southern Appalachia that holds the draw.
"I can go for a run any day of the year. I can get on the river most any day of the year," says Cowles. "I can go hike in the woods, but to be able to ice climb, it's such a rare treat that I'm willing to make the sacrifice."
At 52, he said the cold gets to him a little more than it used to, but the reward is definitely still there.
"On a day like today, when there's nobody else around and you're in a beautiful spot, it isn't about how hard it is or anything," he said. "It's just about being in the woods and doing something enjoyable with a buddy."
McDougald, 43, and with 30 years of climbing under his belt, has much the same feeling.
"It's just special," he said. "It's a special thing around here. You don't get it very often, and when you do, it's just exciting to go."
At just 10 minutes from home, McDougald can't believe he can ice climb in the morning and get back home to work on the computer in the afternoon. And that's without mentioning the gorgeous views.