This review is a part of our Datebook Diner series, where we review restaurants around the Des Moines area.
With an outpost in Booneville, a similarly named bar next door and a cult-like following that lines up near the door during brunch hours, Waveland Cafe almost nears chain status. What keeps it from doing so is the dining room that seats just 46 — a number fewer than the amount of one-of-a-kind mugs that line the wall for the coffee club ($6 for your own Waveland mug that you take home, and in exchange, bring in a personal mug that gets you $1 off each fill). The wait staff — most of who have been on board since 1992 — will ask about dad's health or serenade you by singing along to the Missy Elliot song pumping through the stereo as they deliver your plate of greasy spoon food.
Oh yes, and the fact that nearly every dish the kitchen turns out using 600 pounds of bacon per year and 4,000 pounds of hash browns per month stems from a recipe that originated with a customer, staff member or family of one of the aforementioned populations.
Speaking of the food, do me a favor and stumble in for breakfast to order the cinnamon roll ($2.25). The ooey-gooey pastry is delivered in about 90 seconds, and after one bite of the swimming-in-frosting roll, you'll re-brand calories as "happy points." Alongside a solid mug of not-too-strong diner coffee (think of its flavor as the Bud Light of javas; something you could down a few of over the course of several hours), it feels like you've wiped the sleep from your eyes and stumbled to mom's table on a holiday morning.
Another highlight on the expansive menu: the crispy "Everything" hash browns ($4.50 for a quarter order, $6.95 for a half order, $9.75 for a full order) that includes ham, green and jalapeno peppers, onions, tomatoes and mushrooms. All of that is topped with American cheese slices, which look a bit too plastic-like, but blends in strangely well with the magnificently Midwestern comfort food plate.
Waveland's "best skillet" ($7.25 for a half order, $9.45 for a full order) is a similar egg-topped option that omits the tomatoes and onions found in the hash browns and trades shredded cheese for the slices. While the plain pancake ($2.95) is a solid sweet accompaniment to the savory and spicy platters, skip the too-chewy and not-super-flavorful cinnamon French toast ($5.75 for one slice, $8.25 for two), that would benefit from a dusting of powdered sugar, more egg batter and a thinner slice. Since many items are offered in quarter and half sizes, you can satisfy all of your sweet and savory cravings for less than $10.
If friendly conversations keep you on your stool at the counter until lunchtime, or you come at the slightly less hectic hours of noon to 2 p.m., steer clear of the sandwiches. The breakfast burger ($8.75), eight ounces beef topped with a fried egg, hash browns and cheese, was overcooked and dry on our visit, as the meat M.O. is well done, and the fries came out less-than-piping hot and under-seasoned. The classic turkey club ($8.45) had three layers of very, very lightly toasted white bread stacked with turkey, iceberg lettuce, tomato slices, mayo and too-tough bacon. Sourced from local pork farmers, I was hoping for more flavor from the strips.
Come for breakfast. Stay for the company. Move along for lunch.
Waveland Cafe
Critic's Rating: ??Food: ?Ambiance: ??Service: ???Cost: < $10
Restaurant Info
Address: 4708 University Ave., Des MoinesPhone: 515-279-4341Hours: Daily, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.
What the stars mean:
????: (Extraordinary) Transcendent. A one-of-a-kind experience that sets the local standard.
???: (Excellent) Superior. Memorable, high-quality food; exciting environs; savvy service; smart concept.
??: (Good) Solid example of restaurant type.
?: (Fair) Just OK. A place not worth rushing back to. But, it might have something worth recommending: A view, a single dish, friendly service, lively scene.
No stars: (Poor) Below-average restaurant.
Karla Walsh is a digital/social media manager at Meredith. Follow Walsh on Twitter at @DatebookDiner and on Instagram at @datebookdiner and email here at [email protected].