The canyon country surrounding the town of Escalante is often described as one of the last areas in the continental U.S. to be charted. For a long time, this outpost, located at the doorstep of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in south-central Utah, was overlooked because of its remote location and challenging topography—including a sandstone maze of deep, disorienting canyons. The town was settled only in 1875, relatively late, partly owing to the difficult terrain.
Although the area has since been mapped out, the sense of remoteness remains. Outside town, paved roads quickly give way to rugged backcountry with deep slot canyons, bright-red cliffs, sandstone arches, and spires. As night falls, the dark sky puts on a spectacle with the clear Milky Way, reminding you how rarely most of us actually see the stars.
Dr. Jackie Grant, the executive director of Grand Staircase Escalante Partners, a nonprofit dedicated to protecting the monument through science and education, said the town of Escalante is special because it’s a gateway to the landmark. “A trip to Escalante is like taking a step back in time, not only because you are likely to lose cell service as you drive along the spectacular Scenic Byway 12, but because of the different pace of life experienced in such a small town,” she told Travel + Leisure.
Escalante has just enough amenities—a few outfitters, cafes, and lodges—to send travelers onto the byway and have them come back for more. Here’s how to plan a visit.
Best Things to Do
An “All-American Road,” Utah’s Scenic Byway 12 is a roughly 120-mile, primarily two-lane road with soaring red rock cliffs, switchbacks, and stunning canyon vistas. The drive begins south of Panguitch and ends near Torrey at the entrance to Capitol Reef National Park. It passes through the most dramatic landscapes, including the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Dixie National Forest, and the towns of Escalante and Boulder.
Located a short drive from Escalante, Escalante Petrified Forest State Park is home to a 150-million-year-old fossilized forest from the Jurassic period. Big logs of petrified wood are scattered atop a large mesa that can be explored via loop trails. The visitor center also has a collection of petrified dinosaur bones, as well as plant and marine fossils.
Take a 12-mile drive from Escalante along Hole-in-the-Rock Road to Devil’s Garden, a geological wonder with towering hoodoos and natural arches sculpted by erosion over millions of years. It’s one of the most accessible areas within the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and while it doesn’t have clearly marked trails, visitors can walk around the formations at their own pace, making it a great choice for beginner hikers who might not be ready for the more demanding treks.
The Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument has some of the most otherworldly slot canyons in the country, and Hole-in-the-Rock Road offers access to the popular Peekaboo and Spooky slot canyons. Photographers should also consider visiting Zebra Canyon, with its visually striking pink-and-white striped sandstone walls. When planning your adventures, always check the weather. During the summer monsoon season, the area experiences flash floods, and slot canyons often fill up with water, creating potentially deadly conditions.
One of the more easily accessible trails in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is the 6-mile round-trip Lower Calf Creek Falls trail, which winds through a canyon with high-desert vegetation before ending at a 126-foot-tall waterfall. A big pool at the base is great for a quick, refreshing swim or a picnic during warmer months.
Those who are looking for more adventures can proceed to Upper Calf Creek Falls, a short but strenuous roughly 2-mile round-trip hike with more than 500 feet of elevation gain. At the bottom, Calf Creek runs through a shallow valley with several pools before dropping 88 feet over a cliff at the head of Calf Creek Canyon. A joint trip to Lower and Upper Calf Creek Falls, which totals about 8 to 9 miles, can be done in one day.
One of Escalante’s biggest draws is its position near a concentration of protected lands. The town sits between Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef national parks. Bryce Canyon—famous for its amphitheaters of orange, red, and white hoodoos—is the closest national park to Escalante. Capitol Reef, one of Utah’s lesser-visited national parks, is about 70 miles north of Escalante. The park boasts remarkable scenery and unique geological features such as Waterpocket Fold, a nearly 100-mile-long wrinkle in the earth’s crust created millions of years ago.
Best Places to Stay
Located along Scenic Byway 12, Ofland Escalante is a destination in its own right. The standout feature of this property is the drive-in movie theater with vintage cars for seats. In the evening, guests gather at an outdoor lodge around open fire pits to swap stories about their hiking adventures. The facility has an on-site food truck, a general store, a swimming pool, and a hot tub. Visitors can stay in vintage Airstreams, cabins, and campsites with water hookups and electricity connections. Pets are welcome.
Best Places to Eat and Drink
Perched on a cliff above the Escalante River, Kiva Koffeehouse is a perfect spot to start the day. The menu changes daily, but it always features salads, soups, and sandwiches, with vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. The muffins, cake, and cookies are baked in-house.
Part of the property, nearby Kiva Kottage offers the opportunity to stay overnight in a cozy, rustic cabin atop the same dramatic cliff. Waking up above the canyon with coffee steps away is about as good as a morning in southern Utah gets.
Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm is a culinary powerhouse in the tiny town of Boulder, Utah. It has received numerous accolades, including a semifinalist title in the 2023 James Beard Awards. A lot of its ingredients come from the restaurant’s on-site organic farm, and the dishes are made from scratch. Dinner is served from 4 to 9 p.m. from Thursday to Monday, and reservations are recommended. Its sibling establishment, Little Bone Food Truck, serves breakfast and lunch.
For those who don’t want to drive too far, there’s Escalante Outfitters, a restaurant, a hotel, and an outfitter shop all in one. The cafe specializes in homemade pizzas created with Utah ingredients—local sausage, goat cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes—on a sourdough crust. Gourmet salads, sandwiches, scratch-made desserts, and organic coffee from a local Utah roaster round out the menu.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Escalante is from April through early June, and from September through November. These are the shoulder seasons when the area has optimal temperatures—between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit—for spending time outside.
Summer offers less favorable conditions for hiking and camping, as temperatures often reach the 100-degree mark. December through February is a great time for photography, as the snow against red rock makes for incredible imagery. However, winters in Escalante can be cold, as much of the monument sits between 5,000 and 8,000 feet in elevation. Some businesses in Escalante and the surrounding towns offer limited services in the winter (or close for the season).
How to Get There
Escalante is hours away from any big city, so the best way to get there depends on your priorities. The nearest airport is Cedar City Regional Airport (CDC) in Cedar City, Utah, about 125 miles away. It’s the closest option, but it has limited connections.
Travelers who are willing to sacrifice driving distance for convenient flight options should consider flying to Harry Reid International Airport (LAS) in Las Vegas or Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC). St. George Regional Airport (SGU), in St. George, Utah, about 200 miles away, is a middle-ground option. It’s closer to Escalante than Las Vegas or Salt Lake City, and has more daily flights than Cedar City—although connections can be limited.
How to Get Around
The Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument has no public transportation, and getting around requires a vehicle. Most travelers rent a car at their chosen airport, but many roads within the monument require a high-clearance 4WD vehicle. This is especially true after rain, when the dirt roads turn to mud and become impassable in a regular vehicle.