Although I was newly hired to the TCPalm team, I already knew I had found my place.
It was my first week in the newsroom in early August, and I was just in time for Taco Tuesday: the enterprise team’s tradition to hit up Fort Pierce’s taquerias, tiendas and food trucks about once a month.
I trusted my taco guides, Cheryl Smith and Laurie Blandford, who toured the Treasure Coast and tried every taco sold in Latin grocery stores to rate them for our readers’ benefit — and perhaps they enjoyed it too.
They took me to their favorite, La Primavera Grocery Store in Fort Pierce, a Mexican supermarket tucked away in a strip mall off U.S. 1 and El Rancho Drive. More specifically, they took me to the restaurant nested in the back of the store.
When we arrived at La Primavera, I knew it would be a great taco when I couldn’t find the door. (Pro tip: It's the third one from the far right). In my experience, the local dives and mom-and-pop restaurants serve the best food. There’s a place in this world for Moe's Southwest Grill and trendy Tex-Mex chains charging $17.99 for three tacos, but the best food takes some digging to find.
We strode passed the aisles of harina de maiz, dried poblanos and Mexican soft drinks toward the restaurant in the back. We ordered in Spanish in varying levels of fluency, and sat down on the wooden chairs and tables hand painted with scenes of the Mexican countryside.
We strained to hear our numbers called over the Norten?o music playing throughout the store. Then, one by one came our orders: tacos de cabeza, carnitas, barbacoa, al pastor and carne asada.
Our spread was amassed on Styrofoam plates, garnished with the traditional salsa verde, cilantro, lime and radish slices to cut the spice for us gringos. My tacos, which cost $2.50 a piece, were served on double corn tortillas, the kind my family from Wisconsin could never replicate in the kitchen.
The best part: My lunch was $8.
I don’t usually eat meat, but given the hype around the cabeza tacos, I decided to suspend my diet for an hour. The cuts had been marinating all day, absorbing all the spices, juices and fats to produce a rich and explosive flavor. The tacos had the satisfying power of melting in your mouth as you ate them.
As with all good meals, the table went quiet.
And when we were done, some of us looked up at the cafeteria counter a few paces away and considered doing the whole thing over again. While we raved over the food, a man dining across from us smiled.
“I love to see other folks enjoying our culture,” he said.
More than just tacos
La Primavera Grocery Store has everything: a bakery, butcher shop, produce aisle, imported cheese case, warm and ready-to-go tortillas and chicharrones, and even pottery, mortars and pestles, and a small selection of tortilla presses.
The bakery has all the Latin classics that will keep you coming back, such as flan, guava and cheese pastelitos, and pan de mono — a kind of soft bun with cheese baked throughout the dough.
La Primavera also has homemade ice cream and real-fruit popsicles (paletas) with flavors you can’t find at your local Publix. My favorite is the Caribbean fruit soursop, known locally as guanabana, which I describe as the subtle sweetness of a banana crossed with the tropical tang of a pineapple.
And might I add yet again, they’re cheap, costing just $2.50.
Love of the culture
I know La Primavera might not be everyone’s go-to lunch spot in a world full of Chipotles and Taco Bells. To understand why I gravitate toward these types of restaurants, it helps to look back at my time growing up in Florida.
I minored in Spanish in college and put my communications skills to the test teaching first graders in the Dominican Republic. My closest friend growing up is Colombian, and I was lucky he shared his culture with me.
These experiences helped me tell the stories of people from all over Latin America and the Caribbean as I report on the Treasure Coast.
And if there’s one thing that unites people, it’s food.
Jack Lemnus is a TCPalm enterprise reporter. Contact him at [email protected], 772-409-1345, or follow him on X @JackLemnus.