Home Care In Provencal, LA

Last summer, I drove through the South of France during “la canicule,” or the extreme heatwave that blanketed Europe for weeks. My partner and I started in Cassis and made our way west, stopping in Toulouse for a night, then on to an old French farm home outside of Bergerac, a town about an hour and a half east of Bordeaux, where two friends had just moved. We embraced life sans air conditioning all weekend because, well, we had to.

All of our meals were cold or room temperature or we ate out, so as to not add any heat to the kitchen. But one afternoon, I wanted to cook for our hosts, so we went shopping at the market that day for ingredients. All of the tomatoes, zucchini, potatoes and eggplants were at their best, and I wanted to make a dish that reflected the best summer produce cooked simply but elegantly. To me, that meant tian.

A tian is that classic Provençal dish that layers many thin slices of squash, potato and tomatoes with onions and herbs, baked until bubbly and tender. It’s a recipe I’ve always loved making and while in France, at the apex of summer, it seemed only fitting to break it out while we were going to be sweaty in the kitchen no matter what we made. And what’s great about the dish is that you don’t really need a recipe, since the amount of vegetables you’ll use depends on the size of your cooking vessel and how many layers you want.

Many recipes call for layering onions or shallots in with the vegetables, but I wanted them to be cooked down so I could use more of them, so I started off slowly cooking some onions in a pot until they were translucent and just beginning to brown. After scraping them out to cool, I then laid out a layer of thinly sliced potatoes in the bottom of a dish. The potatoes take the longest to cook and protect the rest of the vegetables from burning too soon, but the best reason they go in first is so they can crisp up into a foundation of golden brown crunchy potatoes.

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After the potatoes, I spread some of the cooked onions over the top, followed by some zucchini, and then repeated the layering until the vegetables just about reached the top of the shallow skillet. I layered some sliced tomatoes over that and then tore some stale bread into the tiniest pieces I could manage with my wine-fueled lack of patience. Into the oven it went, where it baked up tender and umami-rich, like a meaty casserole flavored with just the reduced essence of the summer vegetables. Beads of condensation dripped down our glasses of rosé, and we ate the tian lazily, spooning off bits and pieces from around the table until every last crunchy bit was gone.

Back in the U.S. for this summer, I wanted to re-create that same effortless summer feeling with my own spin on the tian. Yes, there’s a little bit of slicing involved, but otherwise, the slow, methodical layering — and taking sips of wine in between covering the pot to let each layer of vegetables steam through — is the point of it being such an “easy” dish.

To my tian, I added a serrano chile and some grated fresh corn kernels to the onions, which give it both spice and sweetness and an unmistakable American summer quality. Halved cherry tomatoes — Sungolds, if you can get them — go on top to make finishing the dish that much easier.

Once it comes out of the oven, you can kill the heat and let the tian set up and cool for hours. That’s another part of its charm: It’s a dish that shines at room temperature. The vegetables have time to exhale their warmth and collapse and settle into a soft but sturdy stack. In similar fashion, on that hot French summer day, we slumped into our chairs after a sweaty time in the kitchen, clinked a few more ice cubes into the rosé and tucked into the cooled vegetable casserole, letting it — and the cool night breeze blowing across the dining room — cool us down after a long, hot day.

My go-to wine this summer, and truth be told, even now come colder weather, is La Fête du Rose, a crisp, refreshing label that’s perfect on its own or as a partner with a variety of food.

It’s produced in Provence, a destination that I love, and was founded in 2019 by Donae Burston. As I’ve written before in this column, Donae had a high-profile career at LVMH working for brands such as Dom Perignon and Ruinart before he launched his own wine brand. He has since expanded with a white, La Fête du Blanc.

Today, Donae continues to grow his collection with another debut: just in time for winter, here comes La Fête du Rouge. A blend of three red grapes, the majority being Syrah, his latest stunner is aged in stainless steel and concrete tanks and has a gorgeous ruby-red hue. Not too tannic and incredibly smooth, the wine is equally impressive in taste with its notes of black pepper, cherries and touch of pomegranate. With a retail price of $34.99, it’s affordable too but has a quality that speaks to a higher price point.

But instead of me, I’ll let Donae share more. Read on for our conversation that follows below.

What led you to launch a Provence red?

It was the logical next evolution of the La Fête brand as we aimed to bring the wines of Provence to greater prominence in the United States. During my frequent stays in the south of France over the years, developing La Fête du Rosé, I was introduced to the region’s incredible white and red wines. So that was top of mind when I thought about the expansion of the brand. This, coupled with so many of our loyal customers asking if we would ever produce a red, I decided the time was now.

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What is it about the region of Provence specifically that lends itself to creating a red?

First and foremost, the climate of Provence is ideal for viticulture: lots of sunshine, warm days, cool nights, and little rain. This, combined with the great terroir, produces great juice.

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Secondly, 88% of the region is already planted with various varietals of red grapes, albeit the vast majority have historically been dedicated to rosé wine production. As Provence wines have gained global attention and popularity in the last 10-15 years, there has been a renewed focus on producing the highest-quality wines possible, and a passion by growers, winemakers and consumers to push past the region’s rosé typecast.

Tell me about the creation process.

My team and I had a few criteria that had to be met before we could even begin: La Fête du Rouge must be Côtes de Provence, ensuring we were sourcing from the very best region in Provence. The best quality wine was paramount.

Also, true to the La Fête style, our Rouge had to be bright, youthful, and fruit-forward. We didn’t want any of the big tannins you typically get from aging in oak barrels. Our wines were predominantly aged in stainless steel, with a portion fermented in concrete egg-shaped tanks. Aging in concrete (or clay) tanks is an age-old practice that allows for some micro-oxidation to occur, which helps round out the natural tannins from the grape skins to create more concentrated artics, without the heavy wood influence of oak barrels.

From there, we worked with our winemaking team to source and taste base wines from the best Provence growers. After selecting our preferred base wines, we started the blending process. For me, this annual blending process is like being back in a college chemistry class with beakers and cylinders, wine samples, lab notes and precise measurements for each experiment. The team tastes and iterates again and again until we find the perfect representation of the La Fête style and ethos. It’s a very fun and collaborative process.

What did you discover about Provence through creating this wine?

The region is much more than just great rose, and it is beginning to be recognized as a serious wine region, producing high-quality wines.

I also discovered the vast & diverse typography of the region- from the seaside towns and umbrella pines, to the plains comprised of lavender fields and vineyards to mountain side rugged terrain home of cork oak trees.

Provence is often thought of as a popular destination during the summer, but you go year-round. What is it like during the off season?

Of course, it is less crowded without the tourists and Europeans summering during high season. That said, it is still very enjoyable. I feel like I truly get to experience the essence of the region during the off season. It becomes much more about mixing and mingling with the locals: lunch or dinner at the quaint cafes and restaurants versus the luxury hotels, beach clubs, and tourist-focused restaurants that are closed during off season. It is also a great time to get out and explore.

Interview with Christine Lagarde, President of the ECB, conducted by Geneviève Van Lède on 5 July 2023

7 July 2023

How would you rank the Rencontres économiques d`Aix-en-Provence on the international stage − as the Provence version of Davos?

I would describe it as an important meeting place for stimulating discussions on economic issues, similar to the forum on central banking hosted by the European Central Bank in Sintra, Portugal, every year for the last ten years, or its US equivalent in Jackson Hole. You mentioned Davos, but I think Davos is less exclusively focused on economic topics, which is hardly surprising given that this event in Aix-en-Provence is organised by the Cercle des économistes think tank.

What impact do the Rencontres have on the region?

You spoke of Davos to refer to the World Economic Forum. While the name of the Forum is well-known, it’s perhaps more often referred to by the name of the Swiss resort Davos. Locations are significant, just as Aix-en-Provence is for the Rencontres. I also think there’s a lasting bond between Aix-en-Provence and the Rencontres, offering an opportunity for the city and the region, as no-one can question the benefits it will bring to both, as indeed also to the Cercle des économistes, which has such a historic and inspiring setting for its proceedings. But I can imagine that it also presents quite a challenge as you have to live up to the success of the previous event every year anew.

You will be speaking this evening about the role of women. What are you going to tell the audience?

First and foremost that my priority is to maintain price stability. But that does not stop me from defending a cause that has been close to my heart for more than 40 years now. A cause which is in fact intricately linked to the economy – considering that it’s often women who decide on household purchases, even the biggest ones. On this all-woman panel, moderated by Emmanuelle Auriol, and including Laurence Boone and Louise Mushikiwabo, I will focus on the economic aspects, on women’s contribution to the economy. And why we should deplore the lack of progress on these issues and come up with solutions to remedy the situation.

How would you describe their contribution?

We can describe it in three ways. First, it lags behind when compared with the contribution made by men. Second, it is ignored. “Housework”, which is by and large done by women, is not factored into measures of wealth production, such as gross domestic product. Lastly, it is poorly paid. This is not just because women are still paid less than men [for doing the same job]. It is also because of the housework issue I just mentioned, and also because many women worldwide perform undeclared work.

How can we change this?

First, many countries have passed laws to fight discrimination and prevent gender pay gaps, but they are not being applied enough. Second, we need to develop the infrastructure or programmes that enable parents – not just women – to look after their children. France does comparatively well on this front. Third, we need to fundamentally change our ways. We need to stop thinking that only women can take care of having their children vaccinated or of making sure they do their homework. To take just one example [of such changes], society and employers should also encourage paternity leave.

Is inflation under control at last?

It has started to decline, falling from double-digits at the start of the autumn of 2022 to half that today, at 5.5% for the euro area as a whole in June. French figures are slightly weaker. This is due in particular to the fall in commodity and energy prices, and I think also to the initial impact of our monetary policy decisions on prices. Food prices are also rising at a slower pace. But inflation is still higher than our medium-term target of 2% and according to our staff projections, is set to remain so in 2024 and 2025. We therefore still have work to do to bring it back down and reach our target.

What about economic growth?

Growth has been flat in the last two quarters, with very slightly negative growth in the fourth quarter of 2022 (-0.1%) and zero growth in the first quarter of 2023. We estimate euro area growth to be around 0.9% in 2023, with the figure for France being very slightly lower, but we should see a return to potential growth over the period 2024-25.

Can firms increase wages as called for by their employees?

The recent period of high inflation was not accompanied by a reduction in firms’ profit margins, which even increased in some cases – particularly when demand for goods and services outstripped supply. At the same time, wages have also risen by more than expected. In the current context, it is important to know whether firms are going to reduce their margins a little to meet their employees’ expectations of higher wages and to restore some of their purchasing power, which is what has normally happened during previous high inflation episodes, or whether we are going to see a twofold increase – in margins and in wages. A simultaneous increase in both would fuel inflation risks, and we would not stand idly by in the face of such risks.

How can France reduce its debt?

All euro area countries saw their debt increase during the pandemic. Now that the health crisis is behind us and energy prices have fallen, a number of support programmes need to be withdrawn, such as the French energy tariff shield, and public finances need to be put on a path that will make it possible to reduce debt at a steady pace. And that is something that all countries can do.

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La Compagnie de Provence was the first brand to develop a liquid version of the renowned cubic Savon de Marseille in the 2000s. Since then, the company has been purchased by Italian dermocosmetics group Ganassini and has broadened its horizons, in particular by focusing on skincare. Guillaume Cornu Thénard, General Manager and designer of this repositioning, gave an update to Premium Beauty News.

Launched by two friends determined to modernize the use of Savon de Marseille, La Compagnie de Provence soon got the public success expected. A brand of the Ganassini group since 2013, the company now boasts a range of 180 references, counts 1,000 points of sale in France, and exports products in about 40 countries. “I joined La Compagnie de Provence six years ago with one mission: it consisted in repositioning the brand, ensuring it was in line with market trends and consumer expectations,” explains Guillaume Cornu Thénard.

Building on the dermocosmetics expertise of the Ganassini group, La Compagnie de Provence managed to broaden its offering with a substantial face & body care range.

“We created collections with shea butter for the sake of its nourishing virtues, and with velvet algae for its moisturizing benefits. More recently, our holistic apothecary collection combined vegetable and essential oils, and we also have an anti-ageing line with antioxidant fig. We always make a clear, very simple promise, so consumers immediately understand what they buy. This is part of our brand’s codes – we used to write Savon Liquide Marseille in big capital letters on our bottles,” says Guillaume Cornu Thénard.

Today, liquid soap still accounts for 46% of the turnover. It is the entry and discovery point for the brand, but in just a few years, face care and body care have reached a 10% and 30% share, respectively. Home product references (candles, dispensers, cleaning products) complete the picture.

The formulas are composed of at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin. Flagship ingredients are mainly derived from short distribution channels in Provence, and the primary packaging is made from glass or rPET. All inks are plant-derived.

“We made a significant investment and recruited a person in charge of our CSR policy. All the objectives defined by the UN were fulfilled, and this year, we will mainly focus on life quality at work, bearing in mind that the company employs about 40 people. Then, our second target will have to do with packaging to make sure we use as little plastic as possible. Our last priority will be our carbon footprint. All this shows how committed we must be, and we will publish our results at the end of the year,” explains Guillaume Cornu Thénard.

As it plans to achie a 7.3-million-euro turnover this year, with an annual growth rate of 10%, the brand keeps developing in France: it will boast about 1,000 points of sale by the end of the year, mainly in the perfume world – at Sephora’s and Marionnaud’s –, which will represent 300 of them by late 2022. Pharmacies make up the second network, and concept stores, the third.

“We have also defined two other priorities: digital technologies, with our e-shop, which represents more than 10% of our turnover, and wholly-owned stores, because they are crucial in terms of consumer experience. All this helps understand the specificity of our brand, between modernity and tradition,” adds the General Manager.

The brand counts seven wholly-owned stores mainly located in southern France. No further openings are scheduled this year, but the Marseille shop should be redesigned to house an organic coffee shop, a wall of ingredients and, more importantly, a refill fountain. This concept has already been implemented at Galeries Lafayette and in the headquarters store in Aix-en-Provence.

Export accounts for 65% of the company’s turnover, with a presence in about 40 countries, in particular in department stores (Europe, North America, Argentina, Asia, and Oceania).

“The brand quickly managed to establish itself abroad, because people all around the world have a passion for traditional as well as contemporary Provence. This is what makes La Compagnie de Provence unique: we talk a lot about lavender and olive trees, but we equally highlight La Cité Radieuse by Le Corbusier, the LUMA tower, the Mucem, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations, impressionism… Over the past few years, new cultural and architectural dynamics in Provence have perfectly echoed our brand’s initial positioning,” concludes Guillaume Cornu Thénard.

Heading to the south of France this holiday season? Find out where the winemakers of Provence go out to eat. At the Decanter Mediterranean & Balkan Fine Wine Encounter, we caught up with the Provence producers to find out where they go for dinner — when they’re not hard at work in the winery...

Top Provence restaurants

Franck Breau from Château Romanin

Franck Breau is the oenologist and operations manager at Château Romanin, situated in the Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles, just south of Avignon. Its owners Anne-Marie and Jean-Louis Charmolüe previously owned Château Montrose in Bordeaux, but they sold it to buy this historic Provence estate.

Breau recommends his favourite restaurants in the nearby village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. It may be small, but the centre has a rich gastronomic scene. And it was famously where Vincent van Gogh painted his masterpiece The Starry Night.

The eclectic interior of Café de la Place, furnished with flea market finds… Image Credit: cafedelaplace-stremy.fr

Much more than a café, here they serve refined dishes to a gourmet standard. Using locally sourced ingredients, as it was founded by a local farmer and his wife. It has a large sunny terrace and is by the village square. With a good wine list that changes monthly.

The classically French courtyard at Auberge la Reine Jeanne, perfect for those balmy summer evenings. Image Credit: aubergesaintremy.com

Centrally located, this auberge has a typical old Provençal feel. Its restaurant, run by finalist of the TV show Top Chef Fanny Rey, is all exposed stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings, with a terrace for summertime dining. It has been given a Michelin star, with inspectors complimenting its flavoursome market ingredients.

This elegant designer hotel was formerly a private mansion and dates back to the 17th century. Its restaurant has a 1920s high-end feel, and it comes highly recommended by the Michelin and the Figaro Cityguide. Why not pick out a bottle in the accompanying wine shop, which can be served to you at your table.

Jonathan Sack Zafiropoulos from Clos Ste-Magdeleine

La Villa Madie serves up delicate constructions with powerful flavours… Image Credit: lavillamadie.com

Two-Michelin star splendour facing out over the azure Mediterranean sea at the foot of Cap Canaille, La Villa Madie is a restaurant of minimalist design and fine-dining. It’s run by culinary power couple Marielle and Dmitri Droisneau, who seek to promote the seasonal local cuisine, with slick service in a stylish setting.

Portside Restaurant Angelina is centred on Mediterranean cuisine… Image Credit: restaurant-angelina-cassis.com

Five metres from the fishing port, Restaurant Angelina serves up local market produce in its contemporary dining room, with a summer terrace. Its focus on mediterranean cooking is symbolised by the olive tree stationed in the centre of the restaurant. Expect the freshest of fish dishes and well-chosen wines.

Guillaume Tari from Domaine de la Bégude

The town of Bandol is on the Côte d’Azur, a tranquil seaside setting with plenty of top drawer eateries. Here are Tari’s recommendations…

Chef Christophe Bacquié turned down a top job at the Paris Ritz to create his own restaurant… Image Credit: hotelducastellet.net

A five-star boutique hotel and spa that also boasts a beautiful restaurant, which has earned itself two Michelin stars under Corsican Chef Christophe Bacquié. Apparently he was offered position as head chef at the Paris Ritz, but turned it down to create the Restaurant Christophe Bacquié. It’s slightly out of the way, but is near to the Castellet racetrack.

Beautiful Provençal views and fresh garden produce at Hostellerie Bérard. Image Credit: hotel-berard.com

A family run Michelin-starred restaurant in the medieval village, La Cadière-d’Azur. Chef Jean-François Bérard took over from his father René, and has created a modern menu using traditional styles and ingredients. With fresh herbs and vegetables from his own kitchen garden.

Michelin-starred excellence overlooking the azure bay… Image Credit: latabledenans.com

It’s named after its owner and chef, Nans Gaillard — a local man who has realised his long-held dream of opening a restaurant in La Ciotat in 2013. Since then his efforts have been rewarded with a Michelin star. The restaurant has stunning views across the bay, with its clustered coves and the wooded L’Ile Vert in the distance.

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