Think about the last time you went to a bookstore. Walking through the shelves, flipping the pages, and soaking up that classic, old-book smell—for bookworms, there’s nothing better. But if you want to combine that experience with a healthy dose of fresh air, then you’ll need to head to the southern end of California’s Central Coast.
Bart’s Books opened in the town of Ojai in 1964 and has since earned the title of the world’s largest outdoor bookstore, with over 130,000 used and new books available for sale. Separated from the beaches of Santa Barbara and Ventura by the densely forested Santa Ynez Mountains, Bart’s—and Ojai at large—feels like a place out of time. That’s fitting, considering the store’s decades-long history.
“Richard Bartinsdale, who’s the namesake of Bart’s Books, served in the military in the Second World War, and when he was in Paris, he observed the bouquinistes, who have carts along the Seine and sell books in the open air,” says Matt Henriksen, general manager at Bart’s Books. “He wanted to do something similar. He initially was in Los Angeles out of a book stand, but he wanted something bigger, so he found this place in Ojai, where he thought he could attract like-minded artists. He opened in this 1930s cottage and built stands in the yard around the house.”
Though Bartinsdale passed away in 1983, Bart’s Books still operates out of the same cottage today, with tens of thousands of used and new titles spread across its typically sunny shelves. Shoppers can find everything from rare, vintage editions to hot-off-the-presses bestsellers at this beloved local institution. “We have about 100,000 used books and about 10,000 brand-new books,” says Henriksen. “If you want the chance of finding something you’re looking for, or something special in a very unique environment, that’s what we have to offer. And we’re open almost every day of the year, rain or shine.”
As magical as Bart’s is, though, it’s just the start of the things you can do in Ojai’s roughly four square miles. Just around the corner from the bookstore, you can learn a little more about the area at the Ojai Valley Museum. Once home to the St. Thomas Aquinas Catholic Church, the building now displays exhibits on the town’s history and ecosystems, as well as contemporary artwork made by locals.
Speaking of, the museum is just steps away from the galleries and boutiques that make up the rest of downtown Ojai. Take your time wandering in and out of locally owned shops, like Pixie’s General Store and Fig Curated Living. Oenophiles can sip flights of small-batch wines at the Ojai Vineyard Tasting Room, and olive oil aficionados should sample the goods at Carolina Gramm Olive Oil Products, which typically stocks oils from the nearby Ojai Olive Oil Company.
When mealtime rolls around, don’t be fooled by Ojai’s size—the town punches well above its weight when it comes to dining. Quick pick-me-ups include Ojai Coffee Roasters and Three Birds, the latter of which sells books in addition to lattes and pastries. If you’re in the mood for a sit-down meal, order wood-fired pizzas at Pinyon or head to The Dutchess, a Michelin-recognized, Burmese American eatery renowned for its innovative flavor combinations. Think dishes like crispy, buttermilk fried chicken coated in spicy chili sauce atop a scallion waffle.
Once you’ve seen the nooks and crannies downtown, a spot of outdoor exploration is in order. Hot springs, waterfalls, and gorgeous vista points dot the surrounding mountains, perfect for hours of exploration on foot or by bike. “The whole point of coming to Ojai is to relax, take it easy, and enjoy nature,” says Henriksen. “My recommendation is to always just find a nice place to hike. If it’s closer to the end of the day, I suggest Shelf Road, which is a fire road that has a beautiful view of the valley right at sunset. If you like to drink, get a glass of wine and enjoy a nice walk out in nature with your book.”
While you can easily day-trip to Ojai from Santa Barbara or Los Angeles, it’s even better to stay the night (or two) if you have time. The Lavender Inn brings on the Central Coast charm with an on-site spa and Victorian-esque furnishings, while the quirky Capri Hotel features a range of thoughtful amenities like complimentary bike rentals. Ojai’s oldest hotel, the recently redone Hotel El Roblar, offers 50 boutique rooms in a stunning, Spanish Revival-style property. Last but certainly not least, there’s the 220-acre, resort-style Ojai Valley Inn, known for its stunning golf course and large spa.