A trip to Highlands, North Carolina, is always a reprieve. My breath deepens as I pass my favorite sign for Pumpkintown, South Carolina, and cross the state line, knowing I’ll soon be cozying up with a good book or a fireside nightcap. For someone whose job requires them to be chronically online, it’s a place to disconnect and truly connect; the people I’ve met in Highlands have become bonded friends with whom I regularly correspond—on social media, of course, as modern pen pals do.
I’m fortunate enough to get up to the small mountain town a few times a year for work and pleasure, and these are just a handful of the stops I always recommend to first-time visitors.
Skyline’s midcentury-modern vibe makes me feel as though I’ve stepped onto the set of Dirty Dancing. For my most recent trip to Highlands, my sister and I booked the lodge’s slumber party package and were greeted with our favorite snacks, fresh-baked cookies, and beauty masks. We booked dinner at the on-site Oak Steakhouse, easily one of my favorite restaurants in the area, and took their chocolate cake and espresso martinis back to our room for a cozy movie night in the revamped 1930s-built structure.
Highlander Mountain House
I first stayed at HMH for G&G’s Women in the Field event. Owner Jason Reeves and I bonded over our love of traveling abroad, design details, and going analog in the digital era, and his otherworldly hotel captures all those interests. There are vinyl records and retro clocks in each room, gorgeous printed wallpapers, and a large, intimate fireplace downstairs that makes you feel like you’re holing up in the chic English countryside. Tip: Plan your visit around their Salon Series—many of the artists are alums of G&G’s Back Porch Sessions!
Jason does it again with his newly opened Outpost Inn, a luxuriously rugged spot he has described as what you’d get if “Topanga Canyon had a baby with the Catskills and raised it in Appalachia.” Even if I’m not staying at Outpost, I always save a morning to come by and have coffee in front of the vintage wood-burning Malm fireplace, or stop by on the way home from dinner to roast a marshmallow and make conversation around the outdoor firepits. Be sure to give beverage director Jeremy Carter a visit and get his recommendations at their new wine bar.
Old Edwards Inn and Spa
I celebrated my thirtieth birthday at Old Edwards, and I am afraid no birthday will live up. I highly recommend spending the day at the spa (if you don’t want a treatment, get a day pass for the facilities) or the pool (why not both—treat yourself!), followed by cocktails and live music at the Hummingbird Lounge, then dinner at Madison’s…Or cozied up with room service in front of the fireplace in your room.
Staying at Skyline Lodge is a treat for so many reasons, but I’m most excited that I’m right on site for a delicious meal after my four-hour drive from Charleston. I have my order pretty much down to a science. Step 1: a chilly gin martini. Step 2: the pork belly with peanut butter and red onion jam. Step 3: a steak or the lobster risotto. Step 4: chocolate cake to go! It’s sheer decadence overlooking the Blue Ridge Mountains. Tip: Don’t skip out before joining Oak for brunch.
Highlands Wine Shoppe
Inside one of the quaintest downtown buildings is a do-it-yourself wine tasting setup, which hits the spot after a long hike. Put together a little charcuterie board for an extra pick-me-up. Tip: If you stop by on the right Thursday night, the sommeliers will take you through a more in-depth tasting experience.
Madison’s Restaurant and Wine Garden
In town for a celebration? Go to Madison’s. Not in town for a celebration? Make one up and go to Madison’s. The guest experience at this Old Edwards Inn restaurant is top-tier (red roses greet those marking an occasion, for example) and the menus are seasonal—pea shoots for spring, pumpkin elements for fall. Get there a bit early to grab a drink at one of the outdoor bars or the Hummingbird Lounge.
Other favorites: Four65 for wood-fired pizza, Highlands Smokehouse if you’re in the mood for insane barbecue, Ugly Dog Pub for bar food when you’re feeling casual, and On the Verandahfor a quaint and celebratory upscale spot.
Highlands is where I learned to fly-fish during G&G’s Ladies in the Field weekend—and with the incredible Brookings crew, no previous experience is required. The sport itself is ballet and, once you catch your stride, pure relaxation. It doesn’t hurt that you’re casting a line amid the majesty of the Western North Carolina mountains.
If you need a reason to venture up to the mountains, there is no greater excuse than November’s Highlands Food & Wine. Top chefs from across the region ascend to this tiny town for specially curated dinners and a daytime tented sampling; it’s one of the most well-run and upscale festivals I’ve attended. And while the food is the main course, the weekend’s musical acts are the cherry on top. Get up close and personal in intimate venues with the likes Molly Tuttle, Greensky Bluegrass, Futurebirds, Katie Pruitt, and Wilder Woods.
The High Dive
Evenings in Highlands feel more intimate than your typical late-night city scene, most of the time ending around a roaring firepit. If you are interested in heading out on the town, though, might I recommend my favorite little dive, erm, High Dive? There are pool tables, a disco ball, and cold beer. A must-hit.
I’m so glad to have stumbled upon the Bascom during the Highlands Food & Wine festival. Located on a stunning former horse farm, the campus offers artist’s lectures, regional art exhibitions, and classes such as watercolor for beginners and still-life painting.
Hiking
Everywhere you go in this WNC town, there’s an entrance to a hike. Whether you choose to walk out of Ugly Dog Pub and veer left to ascend into the clouds, or drive forty-five minutes to find spectacular waterfalls, there’s no wrong turn. Tip: Hire a guide. (Sadly my go-to guide moved, but she recommends Alarka Expeditions or Highlands-Cashiers Land Trust). I haven’t seen the world in the same light after gazing upon the oldest mountain range on the planet and learning how it came to be, and how the region’s flora and fauna depend on this incredibly specific climate.
Other favorites: While I’ve never been, it’s on my list to explore the Highlands Biological Station botanical gardens. I’ve also been told that a round of golf at one of the town’s many courses is pretty special.
If you do nothing else in Highlands, go to Mirror Lake Antiques. This treasure hunter’s paradise harbors rows of unique crystal glassware, beautiful estate jewelry, hard-to-find books, chic furs, elaborate china, and more. I have brought home a memento from each trip, but my most notables are a 1940s edition of the book The Wizard of Oz, which I had been searching for for months, and a cameo ring with three ladies dancing to commemorate a mother-daughter-sister vacation.
Bardo Home/Bardo Style
I’m from Los Angeles and live in Charleston and I’m telling you right now, Bardo and Bardo Style are some of the coolest and chicest home stores I’ve patronized. Each has a different vibe—Bardo is set in a large warehouse-esque building on Main Street (and sometimes hosts live music), and Bardo Style is a smaller boutique—but both sell furniture, accessories, and trinkets you won’t find anywhere else.
Vivace
You’ll find the top trending clothing brands at Vivace—Shop Vince, Favorite Daughter, White and Warren, Frank & Eileen, Equestrian, Clare V. The staff is so kind and usually has Champagne on hand if you need a little help swiping your card.
This is the store to hit if you’re at all tapped into your witchy, mountain mama (or man) side. My favorite purchases are the tarot-themed bath soaks and mountain flower elixirs. I feel closer to nature in the mountains, and bringing home these surcees reminds me to hold onto that energy no matter where I go.