Bell Works in Holmdel wears a lot of hats. The former research lab was transformed into a mixed-use hybrid of a shopping mall, office complex and entertainment venue—not to mention a —and it’s been a hit among locals since reopening in 2016. But the one thing missing at Bell Works was a full-fledged sit-down restaurant. Enter Mabel.
Mabel opened last year, and it’s the newest, largest and most ambitious restaurant venture for owners Laura Brahn and Grace Crossman, whose other spot, Cardinal Provisions, has been a favorite in Asbury Park. Though a former research lab seems like a guaranteed failure for a cozy date-night spot, Mabel somehow flips the script and makes it all work.
As you enter, a lively, marble-topped bar greets you. On your left is a lounge area with suburban family-room vibes and touches of mid-century flair. It’s the kind of space perfect for cocktails and cozy conversation with a new flame. It exudes third-date energy, in the best possible way.
The main dining room balances masculine leather booths and dark wooden tables with softer elements, including mint-green wainscoting that runs throughout the restaurant.
Those looking for a go-to for their summer/early-fall outdoor bar experience will flip over the massive patio, ample seating and the option for full al fresco dining, should one want to skip the more formal setting inside.
I went to Mabel twice: once, on a gorgeous late-spring evening, when we took advantage of the patio’s more laid-back scene, and again for the full indoor-dining experience.
Both times, we headed straight for the cocktail section of the menu. My favorite was the Rotary, a twist on an old-fashioned, this time punched up with a bit of cola syrup. The Painkiller was a delicious take on the tiki classic, with a house-made coconut cream.
The only real miss was the Irving B. (a salute to the Severance character), which was ruined by a heavy-handed and overly spicy verdita that overpowered the entire cocktail. I really wish the whole “Let’s add peppers to summer drinks” trend would fade already.
Culinarily speaking, Mabel’s concept is worldly, with no style or category off limits. Despite that, the menu feels anything but unfocused, and its diversity encourages you to explore in directions you might not have if you were dining at a more rigidly defined spot.
Our first course started simply (or so we thought) with the shrimp cocktail. But we were pleasantly surprised to find sparks of brilliance, thanks to an utterly delicious preserved-lemon aioli dipping sauce that completely reimagined the flavor profile of the dish. The Manchego croquettes were great, too—fried breaded balls of cheesy potato goodness, complemented by a smack of sweetness from membrillo honey.
Entrées here range from burgers and fish and chips to a lineup of steaks, chops and Italian dishes. The carbonara was good but somewhat forgettable, but the risotto primavera was a showstopper, its creamy richness balanced masterfully by fresh veggies that were chopped small enough to be almost indistinguishable, their flavors blending harmoniously into one.
The other standout was the pork chop. I often avoid pork chops, as they are so easy to overcook in the hands of the wrong chef, but I decided to roll the dice, and I’m glad I did. A tender chop boasted a perfectly textured crust and sat in a shallow lake of honey and sour-cherry agrodolce, the tartness of which played the perfect yin to the pork’s yang.
The dessert menu was short and mostly sweet, but skip the affogato unless you are a fan of extreme bitterness. Instead, opt for the fabulous lemon and elderflower tiramisu, a bright and summery dessert with a citrus-forward sweetness you’ll be craving for weeks to come.
For a spot that never had a sit-down restaurant before, Bell Works came out swinging with Mabel.
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