When you think of steakhouses, you probably picture porterhouses and leather banquettes — not tacos, tequila, and bold agave murals.
Mezcal in Old Bridge opened this past April and has already carved out its own identity, offering a surprising fusion of robust American steakhouse tradition and authentic Mexican flair. The team behind the restaurant, Matthew and Liz Borowski along with executive chef and partner Christopher Dutka, also run 618 in Freehold — a creative American restaurant and banquet hall.
To help the steakhouse stand out even further, Mezcal partnered with award-winning interior designer Vanessa Deleon to create its one-of-a-kind atmosphere — a sleek blend of modern luxury and vibrant Mexican artistry.
“We had the idea for a steakhouse, but we wanted something different that this area hasn’t seen before,” Dutka told NJ Advance Media. “I think Mexican (cuisine) is very in right now. It’s a fun cuisine and at the same time we could elevate it.”
Dutka is more familiar with Mediterranean and Italian cuisines, so it took him nearly two years of researching and diving into Mexican cuisine through recipes, cookbooks and studying online to prepare for Mezcal.
He aimed to strike a balance — offering classic steakhouse staples like steak tartare, caviar, and wagyu while also weaving in bold yet approachable dishes like Yucatán pork tacos and pollo al carbón, served with a variety of house-made sauces and warm tortillas.
Reservations are getting tougher to secure, and the online chatter is rampant. But with all the hype, some questions still remain: does this popular new establishment truly deliver on its promise? Can the notions of a great steakhouse be challenged with a Mexican twist? Let’s dig in.
The good
The Mezcal menu is loaded with classic steakhouse stars like various cuts of steak, seafood towers and kaluga caviar. What makes it stand out, though, is the touches of Mexico and Latin flavors intertwined throughout. Tacos, ceviche, guacamole, lobster “paella” risotto and Mexican street corn don’t sound like an obvious fit at a steakhouse, but they work excellently here.
While a Caesar salad is a steakhouse classic, a Mexican Caesar ($19) is not. But the dish encapsulates Mezcal’s mission in delicious fashion. It featured wedges of little gem lettuce topped with Caesar dressing, heirloom cherry tomatoes plus tortilla strips and grana padano cheese. The uncommon combo was delightful, the juiciness of the tomatoes accented by the crunch from the tortilla strips. Cutting into the salad was a little tedious, but the steak knife provided got the job done.
Though ceviche originated in Peru, it still plays a significant role in Mexican cuisine. Their market ceviche ($25) married halibut with a blood orange ponzu sauce, mango, watermelon radish, shaved jalapeño and caviar. The dish wasn’t overly sour (a common pitfall for some ceviche preparations) and the citrusy ponzu and fresh mango added a fruity and refreshing finishing touch.
Translating to “molten cheese,” the queso fundido ($22) at Mezcal was a big bowl of melted chihuahua cheese folded with house chorizo and roasted poblano peppers served with a side of corn tortillas. I’m not the biggest fan of chorizo, but it added a level of smokiness to the creamy cheese that was hard to resist. The portion was also huge — a great centerpiece for larger parties to share.
The skirt steak tacos ($19) made a small but strong first impression of the restaurant’s steak capabilities. The two tacos were loaded with tender pieces of beef, smashed avocado, chimichurri sauce and pickled onions. It was a well-balanced combination that hinted at the quality to come.
Mezcal touts all the cuts of meat you’d expect to see at a steakhouse — ribeye, filet mignon, even A5 wagyu. But the menu does boast one steak you’ll struggle to find anywhere else — the spinalis steak. Coming from the “cap” of the top of the ribeye, this cut is known for being especially tender and well-marbled.
The restaurant offers it either on its own as a 10-ounce portion ($95) or as their signature spinalis platter ($115) with butter-whipped potatoes and asparagus or corn with a small side of their spiced garlic cowboy butter.
The spinalis was so tender that after getting through the beautiful seared crust, my knife glided through the meat with ease. It melted in my mouth and the seasoning enhanced the beef’s natural richness without overpowering it. The cut also had excellent marbling that you could taste in every bite. As for the sides, they were solid but forgettable – more of a supporting act than a standout.
I also ordered the bone-in ribeye ($89) to see how they handle more common steak cuts. It wasn’t as tender as the spinalis, but was still phenomenally cooked at a perfect medium rare with an eye-catching sear and mouthwatering flavor.
Mezcal offers a variety of sides including roasted carrots, asparagus and hand-cut fries. My favorite was their mac and cheese, prepared with chorizo, five cheeses (cheddar, Monterey jack, Velveeta, parmesan and American) and toasted guajillo pepper bread crumbs. The dish was was superbly rich and bursting with savory depth, complemented by the subtle crunch of the spicy bread crumbs.
The lobster “paella” risotto ($69) fused Italian and Latin flavors with a hybrid of traditional risotto and paella. The rice dish was laced with chorizo, saffron, peas, piquillo peppers and garlic aioli, then garnished with a lobster tail. It was a remarkably indulgent and satisfying creation, with the fluffy rice forming a luscious bed for generous chunks of tender lobster and flavorful chorizo, all brightened by the sweetness of the peas and piquillo peppers.
For a grand finish, I chose the dulce de leche stuffed churros ($25) and pan de elote (sweet corn cake, $17). Just like the entrees, these desserts were as much a feast for the eye as they were for the palate.
The churros were served with showmanship. A small bowl filled with rum and lime juice was placed beside the churros, then set ablaze tableside. Our server finished the presentation by sprinkling cinnamon over the flames, sending sparks dancing into the air.
The dessert was delicious as it was visually impressive — a symphony of warm, crispy, dulce de leche-filled churros topped with cool vanilla gelato and rich chocolate mole sauce. It was like a nostalgic ice cream sundae, but with churros.
The pan de elote was deliciously dense and moist. If a pound cake and cornbread had a baby, it would taste like this. The honey-whipped yogurt and cajeta caramel added another layer of sweetness to cut through the corn taste.
It’s clear the team behind Mezcal put a great deal of thought into the vibe and dining room. But for me, the dimly lit atmosphere bordered on too dark at times, especially in the bathrooms. And while most dishes felt worth the price, the $25 churros – as delicious and visually impressive as they were – felt a bit steep for a dessert.
Mezcal’s interior work with DeLeon elevated the experience even further. The outdoor and indoor space is covered with mural pieces hand painted by local artist Raul Rubio.
When guests first enter through the doors, they are taken through a vestibule featuring a stunning chandelier, a large wooden table in the middle with a giant flower arrangement and more plant life all around.
“It sets the tone for what you’re about to experience,” general manager Eddie Sunday said. “The whole point is that you’re leaving New Jersey and you’re being transported to Mexico, New York City, to Las Vegas, to Ibiza, to a really tourist destination.”
The actual restaurant is split into three parts — the main dining room, the agave room and the bar.
The main is decked out with large booths, loads of greenery on the walls and tree decor dotted throughout the expansive space, bringing an outdoors feel to the room. There are also chains hanging from the ceilings supporting various murals. There’s also a special corner of the room with commemorative candles for donations for the Liv Like A Unicorn Foundation, a non-profit organization in Freehold raising awareness and funds for pediatric cancer research.
The agave room provides a more intimate dining experience — an exceptional area for a date night. In keeping with the theme, the walls are adorned with striking murals of the spiky succulents native to Mexico that are famously used to produce tequila and mezcal.
While the energy in the main dining room ramped up as the night went on — with music blasting and lively crowd — the agave room remained calm and cozy. It’s a thoughtful option for guests who prefer conversation over chaos and a welcome escape for who doesn’t love dining in loud spaces.
The two rooms are separated by the bar that has a flame-like water vapor effect on the counters, making it look like guests are eating on fire.
It’s understandable that some might expect Mezcal to be another overhyped spot getting propped up by influencers and Instagram. But one meal here proofs the Middlesex County eatery definitely is just as much steak as sizzle.
New Jersey has a plethora of steakhouses and throwback institutions. But Mezcal is making a name for itself with an interesting atmosphere and a clever take on two of the state’s favorite cuisines.
Despite being open a little over two months, the restaurant has already laid a solid foundation. Not just with buzz, but bold flavors, polished execution and a clear sense of identity.
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Lauren Musni may be reached at [email protected]. Follow her on Twitter @Laurengmusni and on Instagram. Find NJ.com on Facebook.
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