New Jersey may be stuck in the chilly doldrums of winter, still months away from beach season. But even in the offseason, one of the Garden State’s hottest restaurants just opened down the Shore.
Longtime Spring Lake banquet and wedding venue The Shore Club just became home to Olea — a splashy new Italian steakhouse from a chef with a major following.
Nestled in the space that once hosted The Sea Crest Grille, Olea has been a hot table since it opened in early December. From the ECS Hospitality Group and Brandon Carter, the founding chef of wildly popular steakhouse The Butcher’s Block in Long Branch, this new steak, pasta and seafood concept is the latest elevated dining destination for Monmouth County. The space is centered around their namesake, an olive tree — a symbol of heritage and hospitality.
Inspired by cuisine from the Mediterranean coast, Carter’s aim is to blend those international flavors with local and seasonal ones, sourcing ingredients from nearby farmers and fishermen through his creative culinary approach and signature wood-fired style of cooking.
The wine and cocktail program add a playful twist, with catchy names like “The Irish Riviera,” “Ziggy Stardust,” and “Virtual Insanity.”
Does Carter’s stellar steak work from The Butcher’s Block translate in his new project? Does Olea stand out in a state filled with steak, seafood and pasta? Eager to experience the early hype, I visited on a Saturday night.
The good
Olea’s menu is full of tempting dishes, ranging from classic Italian and steakhouse to more innovative American creations. This is hardly a rarity down the Shore. Seeing it executed this well, however, is another story.
The first dish we sampled was a prime example of Olea’s seafood prowess — the crudo ($28). The specifics of the dish change based on what the chef selects daily, and upon this visit they prepared thinly sliced tuna topped with finely diced apple, onion, microgreens and crisp shallots. Each melt-in-your-mouth piece sat in a delicious citrus emulsion that balanced the flavors. I’d order this again in a heartbeat, excited to try Carter’s other delicious raw fish concoctions.
The crab cake rangoon ($28) jumped out on the menu, a fun and creative play on a steakhouse classic. The crispy fried rangoon purses filled with tender crab cakes were packed with flavor and were lighter than you might expect, thanks to the fennel and herb salad with which they were served. The Old Bay agrodolce added another layer of bite and savoriness to the dish, which all in all, was an absolute hit. If you need proof that Olea isn’t just a typical steakhouse, look no further.
Olea’s spicy rigatoni ($28) is nearly identical to the one Carter served at The Butcher’s Block — meaning, it’s one of the best in the state. The pasta was exquisitely al dente, coated in a thick sauce that struck the perfect balance of sweet DiNapoli tomato sauce, creaminess and spice from the Calabrian chili. We noticed several bowls of spicy rig landing on nearby tables, further validating its popularity. This one is a must-order if you’re in the mood for a reliable pasta dish that packs a little heat.
While Olea isn’t a classic steakhouse, it does have an extensive steak selection ranging from bone-in ribeyes to prime tomahawks. The 8-ounce prime filet ($75) was a small but mighty slab of beef that had an incredible crust. It arrived pre-sliced, which was surprising and unconventional, but it somehow still remained juicy. While it could have used a touch of finishing salt, it was still an excellent steak.
Carter’s Cap’n Crunch Brussels sprouts are arguably one of his biggest claim to fame — he paired the trendy veggie with the iconic breakfast cereal with delicious results at The Butcher’s Block. So I was excited to see his Sprouts 2.0 ($16) on Olea’s menu. This iteration featured the same, gloriously fried sprouts topped with a hot honey sriracha glaze, hazelnut crunch and parmesan. A much more grown-up version of his original recipe, but these crispy, sweet, salty and nutty sprouts still hit on all the flavor notes and complimented the simply cooked steak perfectly.
Among the more creative dessert offerings, the fennel pollen ice cream ($15) is a delightfully simple scoop of house-churned fennel and vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, fennel pollen, and a drizzle of olive oil. The ice cream was more mellow than expected, with just a slight hint of anise. It was a touch too frozen, but after letting it sit for a few minutes it became perfect texturally. Each well-rounded spoonful of creamy ice cream, crunchy fennel pollen and sea salt plus bright, viscous olive oil went down easily — a perfect ending to the rich meal that preceded.
The bad
Truthfully, the Caesar salad ($20) at Olea wasn’t terrible, it just needed a little tweaking. I loved the complex flavor of the dressing, there was just too much of it. The leaves were crisp, and the fried capers added a nice briny crunch. With a lighter touch of dressing, this salad had the chops to be stellar.
I was elated when I saw spaghetti all’assassina ($28) on the menu. This was the first time I’ve come across “the assassin’s spaghetti,” a rustic, southern Italian pasta dish, in the United States, and was eager to see how it would translate. Carter cooks the spaghetti risotto-style in a Dinapoli tomato broth with Calabrian chili, garlic and basil. The noodles are meant to absorb all of the broth and cook down in a pan until charred. Olea’s version had great flavor and came close to hitting the mark, but ultimately suffered in texture — it didn’t achive the dish’s signature crispiness. A longer cook for a more caramelized finish would have been the ticket.
The vibe
The entrance of the restaurant is tucked in the rear of the hotel’s lobby. So guests enter through the main entrance, where they are greeted by a hostess who escorts them to the lobby bar where they are encouraged to enjoy a pre-dinner drink.
The next part of the evening begins in one of the two dining rooms — a cozy, texture-rich sunken room with a fireplace and velvet banquettes, or the more open, neutral toned room with soaring 15-foot olive trees and dramatic chandeliers. There’s another slender bar tucked behind the fireplace dining room, which feels more intimate than the lobby bar.
We were sat near the fireplace, which warmed the room substantially as it filled with a mix of couples and groups of friends dining together. Olea feels special, yet approachable with an upscale vibe that’s not “in your face” showy.
Olea is an exciting addition to the Monmouth County dining scene. Carter has created a cozy new destination for a great meal that delivers on quality without being fussy. The beautiful bar and dining spaces offer a diverse experience, while service across the board was attentive and consistent.
Yes, we’re still months away from high season down the Shore. But it’s easy to imagine Olea still being the hottest restaurant in the region once the summertime hits.
609-455-2886
Service Areas
